Betsy, my 67 s2a build.

Well i found out today that s3 tubs are put together a lot stronger than s2a tubs. They use rivets in places where s2a just had spot welds. Especially where the front section of the tub joins the floor and where the tool box sections are joined to the front. Probably got something to do with where the inertia reel seatbelts are mounted. Very strong and hard to break apart. In the end i had to use an angle grinder to cut the section apart so i could put it in the trailer for the scrappy one day. The rivets that hold the ends of the galv stiffener plates under the tub were the same material. Very hard to even cut off with the cold chisel. I ended up grinding them off too. When i pulled my s2a tub apart i just gave it a few hits with the hammer and it fell to bits. They were just aluminium rivets. The s3 rivets were steel. Anyway its done. Just got a cab chassis now. More to pull apart yet. Gonna ring around the scrappies and get the best price for the clean alloy. Hope i get a few hundred$$.

Cheers Rod

Hello Rod,

Here are some more details about the later production Series III diesels that had the brake booster and a source for vacuum. I sourced the information in the Land Rover Series III Repair and Operation Manual Edition 4, Published by Land Rover in 1984.

The system includes a butterfly valve feeding into a reservoir tank then to the booster. Good luck finding these parts if you wanted to go original. They would be rare as rocking horse poo.


There is also an eBay link of all things written about the French vehicle's vacuum pump option in 2006 Accessed January 27, 2917 from, http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/IMPROVING...2360304/g.html

Plus a discussion on the Land Rover Forum UK about it ... Accessed January 27, 2917 from http://forum.landrovernet.com/showth...ke-Vacuum-Pump

Phin sourced a vacuum pump from overseas. I also found that the same pump was fitted to Rovers so it is not just a French idea.

From memory Dinty also looked down the road to providing vacuum to a diesel engine he once fitted to a Long Range Desert Patrol Vehicle via a Chinese clone of a 4BD1 Isuzu's Hitachi alternator. Eventually Dinty reinstalled a petrol motor into the vehicle so the need to find vacuum for a diesel engine no longer applied.

I had intended to use Baldrick my Series III vehicle as my main towing vehicle. To assist in this while I was tapping in for the vacuum pump by fitting a universal oil cooler adaptor 10 AN sandwich http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERSAL...IAAOSwQYZWy77q. Then a couple of tees on the inlet and outlet lines to run the vacuum and incorporate a Serck oil cooler 25 Row 115mm Wide Core 8AN Fittings PNARO1663 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Serck-Oil...IAAOxykUZTets7

The added benefit of this universal adaptor sandwich system is that it allowed a spin on oil filter :)

Then at the time Baldrick's engine that had previously been blowing smoke since prior to my buying it made some awful noises and shut down while I was giving its weekly warm up. Meanwhile the clutch being frozen turned to be more than the need of a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I have since picked up another diesel engine for Baldrick. However, he has lost his place as number one priority and been moved down to number Three.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Thanks Lionel. Keep looking as im no good at it. I appreciate ur efforts, i really do. Im absolutly no good at researching things. I always get the wrong info or i find porno sites which then distracts me even more😉. Im not sure what im gonna do as yet but when i get the engine out and have a look through it ill fit it and go from there. The belt driven vac pump looks the go as it doesnt look like it needs an oil supply. Early grey motor holdens had a combination vac and fuel pump fitted for the wipers. Im not sure it would supply enough vac to work a booster as the wipers were marginal at best except when ur going down hill. I didnt know there was an electric vac pump available, i might look into that too. Thanks again Lionel for ur help. Its been great.

Cheers mate,
Rod

G'day Rod,

I did a fair bit of research two years ago and wound up not needing to have a tow vehicle as urgently as I thought. At least someone may benefit from my research.

If you click on the link there are a lot of American sites on eBay that have the electric Vacuum pumps. Surely the Australian hot rod suppliers would know about them here and would be able to supply one?

As long as the electrics keep working they would not have to be fed an oil line or run off an extra pulley drawing off the fan belt. This could also make the initial expense of getting an electric pump cheaper as it does not need any additional parts or trail and error positioning to get things aligned. Looks like it only requires some type of joiner to fit into the booster.

Brake Booster Vacuum Pump | eBay. Looks like some of them even do international shipping to Australia!

Who knows you could act as a guinea pig for me and other people with Series III diesels!

Kind Regards
Lionel

Gday everyone, i may have solved my suck problem. I found an electric vac pump from of all places, a late ve vf v6 commodore. Seems they suffer from lack of vacuum so they have an electric vacuum pump fitted to the front of the engine plumbed into what may be an intergrated vacuum tank on the plastic inlet manifold and a tee piece to the brake booster. Hopefully it can be had for not too much money. I will obviously fit a remote vac tank as well.

I removed the rusty doors from the donor s3 today. I was expecting the screws to be siezed etc but they all screwed straight out with the screwdriver. Brilliant. Tomorrow its supposed to be cooler so might remove seat box and dash plastics from firewall. Maybe even get the front wings off. We'll see. Got a dentist appt tomorrow. Another filling or 2.

Cheers Rodhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2017/01/35.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2017/01/36.jpg

Ok today i continued with the donor vehicle stripdown. I removed the dash upper and lower panels. I pushed the windscreen forwards and found thishttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2017/01/14.jpg
Lots of broken glass. Also evidence of windscreen leakage. It seems that these faults are engineered into the vehicle. I spose they dont want them to last forever. Ive started removing the wiring harness carefully. Im hoping to get the harness off tomorrow as well as the front wings. On a better note ive procured an electric vac pump. I hope im able to make it work as i need it too.

Does anyone know if the extractors of the petrol motor will fit the diesel engine?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2017/01/15.jpg

Cheers Rod

Hi Rod good to see that you're back into it.

I bought some petrol extractors off gumtree hoping they would fit my diesel. The other day when I was dismantling my engine I tried to fit them up but it looks like it's not going to work. It appears to hit on the intake manifold as well as some of the studs not lining up.

I didn't spend heaps of time investigating if they could be modified to fit though as I was only doing a quick check.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ben_Burdett

Hi Rod good to see that you're back into it.

I bought some petrol extractors off gumtree hoping they would fit my diesel. The other day when I was dismantling my engine I tried to fit them up but it looks like it's not going to work. It appears to hit on the intake manifold as well as some of the studs not lining up.

I didn't spend heaps of time investigating if they could be modified to fit though as I was only doing a quick check.

---

Bugger. I bought a brand new set of extractors for the petrol engine but coz its stuffed ive now got myself a $400 pile of tubing. Ah well. I can sell em i spose. Thanks Ben. More planning and thinking about stuff.

Cheers Rod

Continued...from yesterday...

So today i pulled off the front bumper, apron, both front wings and the wiring harness. I wish when ppl pull things apart they put them back together properly. There were washers missing from lots of places. Mainly the bolt heads. The bolts had been tightened so much that the bolt heads had sunken into the metal, making it very difficult to get a socket onto them let alone a spanner. I ended up grinding the champher of an 11mm single hex socket and hammering it onto the offending bolts. I managed to get them all but one. Of course it was the hardest one to get to. The top bolt on the r/h wing that also holds the bonnet stay rod bracket. I had to actually split the bolt with a 2lb hammer and cold chisel. Got it with 2 hits coz i "USED A BIGGER HAMMER". Hehe.
Anyway i was wondering what these things were? They appear to be some sort of oil switches?? https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/727.jpg there are three of them. One is for the oil pressure light, the small one. There was a wire connected to the larger one but it went no where, and the lower one wasnt connected to anything. Any ideas??



And a couple of obligatory pics belowhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/728.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/729.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/730.jpg

And this is where the fuel line was broken the other dayhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/731.jpg

Also found this...broken main leaf on left fronthttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/732.jpg

Astounding that both front dumb irons are in perfect order
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/733.jpg

Seems the chassis is in very good order except for where the rear crossmember is welded to the two rails. Even the crossmember under the engine is undamaged. Almost a pity to cut it up. If anyone wants to buy it, pm me. Done for the day.

Cheers Rod[emoji1]

My S3 has the same oil sensor/switch setup. Small one is the standard switch for the oil pressure warning light. The next larger one with 1 wire is the sender for the oil pressure gauge. The other one with 2 wires is another switch that completes the reverse light circuit of all things!!

When engine is running oil pressure closes the switch and allows the reverse lights to illuminate. The reverse lights will not work without engine running. This like this because of australian design rules. the standard wiring diagram in the service manual does not show this.

It took me ages to work this out😀