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Thread: Betsy, my 67 s2a build.

  1. #1
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    Betsy, my 67 s2a build.

    Ok its about time i started a build thread on Betsy (named by my late father). Betsy is/was a 1967 s2a hardtop. She was originally delivered in Rockhampton by Annand and Thompson as a grey truck cab ute. I know nothing of her history until my dad bought her in 2003 in Mackay in Qld. When he seen her she had a capstan winch fitted. She was painted olive drab and had a Athol Hedges steel full length roof fitted, a fairey overdrive was also fitted. After he had saved up to buy her, he went to pick her up and found the capstan winch was missing. The owner said it wasnt included in the sale. My old man went off at him but no joy. He had already sold it for what my old man had bought the landy for. So after a year of working on her to get the old girl roadworthy, it was done and he was driving her around, loving every minute of it. My dad was getting on a bit and soon found it hard to drive everyday. He called me up one day and asked if i wanted to have her. Well i saved up some money and flew up to Mackay and drove her home to Adelaide. I had to fix a couple things before i drove it back. Like there was no crank pulley bolt. Tappets were noisy so adjusted them. Topped up the oils and greased everything. Drove her home on the inland road through Bourke etc down to Broken Hill then to Adelaide. She started running a bit rough at Yamba but as i had no tools i just kept on going. Well that was in 2006. Now its 2016 and its time to start the rebuild.
    A couple of pics before i started working on her.

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  2. #2
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    So, last year i started stripping Betsy down due to encroaching rust in the bulkhead and a couple spots in the chassis.

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  3. #3
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    I was able to strip the old girl completely back to the chassis. I wire brushed as much of the chassis as i could and found a few rusty bits which i cut out and welded up. I spent a lot of time thinking about what i wanted to do to her and i decided to fit 4 wheel disc brakes. I found a replacement bulkhead. I had it sand blasted and primed. I found a tiny spot of rust about the size of a 50 cent piece under the brake master cylinder. I cut out both pieces of panel and welded a new strip of steel into it.
    I cut the pedal box longer to accept the booster and pedal assy. I painted the new to me bulkhead. Also sprayed lots of fisholene into all the box sections and crevices. I hung it upside down so it got into everything. Its amazing how that stuff works. It gets into everything. It was still seeping out of joints weeks after. Its now being stored for reassembly. Sorry no pics. They dont post here from the tab2. Unfortunatly i took most of the pics with the tab2.

    I sent the chassis to the sand blasters 4 weeks ago and picked it up today.

    So thats a quick catch up to where i am now. I have been posting some updates in the past in the "what did you do to your landy today" thread.

    I hope my thread gets some interest. I will explain things as im going along. It will not be finished in a couple weeks so it will be a long build.
    For the rivet counters, This is NOT a full concourse resto or even a resto as such, just a rebuild and repair as best as i can afford it. Im not a professional panel beateror spray painter, just a retired (due to injury) motor mechanic, having worked for about 30 years at Holden dealers around W A & S A.

    My plans are...

    1. Reassemble chassis including cleaning and rebuilding as many parts as i can.

    2. Fitting a Paul Heystee disc brake conversion on the front with defender ventilated discs and defender discs on the salisbury rear using Paul Heystee hubs.

    3. Fit double diaphragm booster to brake pedal, all new brake lines and stainless steel braided brake hoses.

    4. Fit the engine and gbox etc back into chassis including refitting the fairey overdrive which ill have to look into as its bloody noisy.

    5. Fit exhaust extractors and a new stainless system through holes in the chassis (military style).

    6. Repair or replace the rear tub and fit it to chassis first before the bulkhead. My old bulkhead had a lot of spacers between it and the outriggers and the drivers door was a bugger to close and had no adjustment left.

    7. Fit the bulkhead and adjust it so the doors close as they should.

    8. Fit dash and rewire the old girl completly with fuses and relays for the lights and other things.

    9. Fit front panels and radiator etc.

    10. Convert the Land Rover to a soft top.

    11. Register and drive around the "block" towing my no5 trailer.
    Camp everywhere.
    Live rest of life in a happy frame of mind travelling around our wonderful country in my Land Rover called Betsy😆

    Is this too much to dream about??


    Cheers Rod

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  4. #4
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    Hi Rod, yes you needed a thread of your own☺

    Chassis is looking great. Bet you are glad to have it back and can't wait to start throwing parts at it. So much more enjoyable working on nice new clean stuff.

    Look forward to seeing more

  5. #5
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    Thanks for starting a thread. I look forward to seeing your progress.

    Nathan.

  6. #6
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    Interested

  7. #7
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    Well I got the chassis home yesterday and with the help of a sorta mate I removed it from the trailer and mounted it back onto the rotisserie. Turned it over a few times and buckets of sand came out the holes in the chassis. Bugger. More cleaning and painting. The sand blasters missed a few bits. I think ill have to give it another coat before I fisholene it on the inside. I got called into work today (to do a clutch on a n15. I do some cashies for extra $$. I put up with the pain after for a few days.). So im just resting for a while then out with the compressor and try to blow out some of the sand. See what happens after that.

    Cheers Rod

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  8. #8
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    Hi Mate,

    I think that your dream on restoring your Landy and driving around in it is great.

    As for the level of your restoration - I think do what you want to do. As long as the vehicle is safe and reliable - who cares!!

    "To each his own I say"

    I look forward to reading your thread as your project progresses!
    54 Series 1 86
    61 Series 2 109 - Club Rego
    76 2 Door Range Rover
    78 101 Forward Control - Club Rego
    88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
    90 4 Door Range Rover - Club Rego
    93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
    98 Freelander 1 - Full Rego
    22 Defedner 90 - Full rego

  9. #9
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    Ok couple panadol and outside I went. Fired up the compressor and blew as much pink sand out as I could.

    Ok a question for all you land rover gurus,

    Will it be ok if I drilled out some of the holes that are in the chassis to a larger diameter, say to 9/16 to help drain out the water when I flush it through and if I drill a hole in the lower box section of the rear x member to drain that out as well?

    Thanks in advance.

    Cheers Rod

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  10. #10
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    G'day Rod, not sure on the hole resizing, but I wouldn't think it matters that much though, if your only going up say one size (?).

    As for getting water and stuff out of your chassis, at work when cleaning long tubes etc, I use a peice of 6/8mm air line which you can make as long as you want, (in your case, chassis length). Just drag it back through a few times, everything will come out/dry as required.
    To check how dry it is, use a "pull through", same as used in gun cleaning,,, just a bit of wire with a bit of rag tied at the end.

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