S2A bit and pieces.

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Originally Posted by Busted Syncro

G'day Glen,
You have done a nice job on your resto.
However, I need to correct you on your post regarding the Solex carb and the AC fuel pump.
Yes the thread for the fuel input on the Solex 40pa10 is M12 x 1.25.
However the input and output threads for the AC fuel pump is 1/2" UNF. Yes the M12 x 1.25 will thread in but is a very loose fit and dangerous.
The fuel pump in and out ports are designed to fit CAV fittings. If you look into the port you will see they seal on the bottom of the thread in a chamfer.You can get CAV to 5/16" hose adapters.
Now the Solex is a different story. The castings are over 50 years old and can soften. You will find the seal of the fuel input will always leak and drip on the exhaust manifold.
I re threaded my input to 1/2" UNF and use the CAV fitting to seal the same way as the fuel pump. Yes the Solex jets are metric in thread and jet size. An example is Air correction jet 185 means 1.85mm. Chris

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Hi Chris,

Thanks very much for the correction and the proper thread specifications. I've just gotten back in from the garage, having quickly popped out to check the fuel pump fittings. You're absolutely correct. They (the fittings to the fuel pump) actually tighten up quite firmly but when cracked and unscrewed a couple of turns do feel uncomfortably loose - clearly not the correct thread. Believe it or not it's actually coming back to me and I do remember now that this was an issue to be resolved**. I had originally sourced and utilized the fittings in a rush for the engines "first start" day/event, but that was over two and a half years ago now (geez, some projects do drag on) and the finer details appear to have escaped me! I'll certainly source the correct fittings now that I know what to get.

As for the carb intake fitting, you don't feel that the fiber washer will give an adequate seal? The original banjo union was similarly sealed (actually on both sides) with fiber washers. Haven't had a leak so far.


** Update: yeah, now I remember fully - when I went out hunting that day for the fittings with the carburetor in hand I didn't take the fuel pump with me as well, having just assumed that the threads would all be the same, so at the end of the day I wound up ordering three sets of the same thing. I should have signed up here 5 years ago! Could have saved a little bit of grief!

G'day Glen,
Remember definition of a Landrover, "If its not broken now it soon will be".
My 2a is a daily driver for over 40 years and the Solex carb banjo fitting over the years distorts the mounting shoulder as the casting softens. You are always tightening it. My fix stopped the leaks on my Solex. Yours maybe not so distorted. Remember the fuel pressure is 4PSI with the mechanical pump. I note also the Solex has an unfinished port facing the rocker cover so can be used if the original port becomes a problem.

Here is a link for CAV fittings to 5/16" hose. (Note I haven't bought from this Company yet.)
http://www.amanstoyshop.com.au/produ....aspx?id=10427

I kept the Solex because all the jets are external and easily changed without opening up the carb when tuning.
Also if you go to far in jet size you can fill the jet with solder and redrill to correct size.
Chris

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Originally Posted by Busted Syncro

Here is a link for CAV fittings to 5/16" hose. (Note I haven't bought from this Company yet.)
http://www.amanstoyshop.com.au/produ....aspx?id=10427

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Here is the company that supplies the CAV fittings.
Welcome To Industrial Fittings Sales.

They have a branch in SA.

The QLD website has an online catalogue. Fuel Filter Adaptors 'CAV' are on page 42 Booklet - jQuery Plugin



Colin

40 years of daily driving in a 2a is some impressive dedication!

I'll get those CAV fittings from the suggested supplier. Another virtue of the accessible jets of the Solex which suddenly springs to mind (which I have actually seen pay dividends in the field) is that if you carb gunks up you can simply pull the jets for cleaning and spray the aerosol carburetor cleaner into the carburetor itself through the open jet passages.

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Back onto the seats....... Yesterday afternoon I made a start on cleaning up and sorting the next batch of bits to go the the grit blasters in preparation for galvanizing. This included the seat frames. My LR originally had a hodgepodge of seat cushions that were rotted out and tossed years ago. I retained the backrests though.

My drivers seat has its own independent frame that rides of adjustable sliders. Was this a standard fitment or a luxury upgrade item? My passenger and center seat backrests attach to fixed-position swivel supports (which are currently at the grit blasters).

My backrests are steel-backed and none have support springs - the cushioning is provided by foam padding only. I've decided to have these reupholstered. It's a pretty simply design and I don't think that any experienced auto upholsterer would have much difficulty simply re-foaming these and recovering. As for the cushions, I will just have to make my own bases, probably from plywood.

I take it this grey vinyl is the "elephant hide" covering?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/187.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/188.jpg

Glen

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Originally Posted by 68s2alwb

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Back onto the seats....... ........

My drivers seat has its own independent frame that rides of adjustable sliders. Was this a standard fitment or a luxury upgrade item?...........

Optional equipment.

I take it this grey vinyl is the "elephant hide" covering?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/187.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/188.jpg

Glen

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I think so, but it is a bit far gone to be absolutely certain.

John

If you make your own bases there are strips of timber on the foam side and also two narrow hardwood strips that the base rests on. If sized & positioned correctly the hardwood strips hit against bolt heads and stop the base sliding forward.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/184.jpg

Exmoor can supply covers in 'elephant hide' if you want to keep it original. There was a thread on this somewhere.
Here it is http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-...ecovering.html

Drivers seat often had the adjustable base. Not sure if this was LWB only or an option.

Colin

G'day Glen,

I see in your last picture post the 2a Parts Manual. Have you added the parts numbers for all the oil leaks you are going to have?. I have!!!.

Chris

Great; thanks for the info in the cushion bases. It's been a long time since I stripped my vehicle down but I don't recall my rotted-out seat cushions being secured at all. Do they just rest atop the seat box? If you drive over a speed hump too fast in a Series LR, do you wind up having loose seat cushions bouncing around inside the cabin?

Funny enough my genuine Land-Rover parts catalog ("Series II and IIA Bonneted Control Models") dated December 1968 neither pictorially details nor lists part numbers for the adjustable-position drivers seat frame.

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Originally Posted by Busted Syncro

G'day Glen,

I see in your last picture post the 2a Parts Manual. Have you added the parts numbers for all the oil leaks you are going to have?. I have!!!.

Chris

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Lol. I might be having delusions of grandeur here, but I think I'll have the oil leaks licked; though I currently have the gearbox out for attempt #2. PTFE thread sealing tape works wonders on oil-filler plugs.

One thing that has me a little puzzled is that the transfer case appears to be air-tight with no breather fitted ???? Surely that can't help with oil sealing (friction from gears generates heat that causes air inside the case to expand which will eventually push past the seals). I think I will drill and tap one of the two top inspection cover plates for a breather similar to what is standard fitment to the differential housings.

Another point on the adjustable seat base - the seat cushion on these is slightly smaller than on the others, to fit inside the frame.

And I have never seen the adjustable seat on a swb, but of course they are a bolt on swap, so they could be fitted to them. Note that even on the adjustable seat the back should rest on the stops on the bulkhead, as the stop near the hinge is not strong enough, especially if you have the optional high backed seats.

John