Barney - a 1958 Series II

Hi Peter
There is a blanked 3/8” thread in the head just below the thermostat on the drivers side. I am in the process of fitting an electric temp sensor into it (with adaptor). You could just as easily put in a mechanical one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...464dd25c14.jpg

Sorry Peter
Should be 3/8” BSP thread.
Richard

Oh that’s excellent, I’ll check it out.
thanks Richard.

Richard,

Unfortunately that plug doesn't exist on my engine, the picture you posted must be the 2.25 ltr.

There is a garage near here, "British Auto Restorers", They have located for me the correct NOS bellows type thermostat and it's on the way, and they have suggested I could put a temp sender into the top radiator tank rather than drilling and tapping holes in the thermostat housing. I've not seen it done that way before but I can't see why it wouldn't work. They assure me they have done it to many an old MG and Austin that have no provision for a sender on the head.

Opinions on this please?

To that end I have ordered a dual Temp and Oil Pressure gauge so I can keep a close eye on what the engine is doing.


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rove...ry%20Tempe.png

4bee

I bet it won't be long & you'll get fed up with the hand brake lever up your trouser leg but that can be replaced by the later bent one & it is easier to get to, especially if you install seat belts.

Best wishes for a great resto.

Thanks 4bee for your well wishes; and I have a bent one tucked away for just that occasion... [bigsmile1]




I would still like to know if the "213574 - Thermostat Switch for Choke Warning Light" at the rear of the head would serve as a temperature light switch??? Of course I've no idea what temperature the switch is rated to so it may be useless for that purpose...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rove...8%20-%2059.png
Available from Craddocks at $100.00 + freight (OUCH!!!)


Cheers,
Peter

That makes sense - I went back and read the whole thread and see what you mean. I do have a 2.25 and not the 2. Sorry Peter.

The choke warning switch wouldn't be any good as it goes closed when the engine reaches a temperature when the choke is no longer required i.e. normal running temperature. The light is intended to remind the driver to push the choke button in when the engine is warm. the choke knob has a switch the opens the circuit when the knob is in making the warning light go out.
Regards,
Tote

Thanks Tote,

Seems an odd sort of system. I'm scratching my head wondering why they'd bother...
When you think of the work needed at the design, pattern making, etc stage - to include a gizmo just to remind you to push the choke in!!
I don't have a switch to go in there, and considering the cost of one I think I'll just ignore the whole thing.
I'm sure I'll remember to push the choke in without a light to remind me...[biggrin]

Peter.

Not inexpensive any more are they?[bighmmm]

You have to take yourself back in time to a different age when these were produced.
In latter times we have all got used to Auto chokes that shut themselves down at the correct engine temp.

Mine still works ok, & it is surprising how often the Amber lamp reminds me to push the choke in, especially if there other activities going on that only a Land Rover Series can be used for.


I guess it is a "Pays yer money & makes yer choice" situation.

I remember from my youth that aftermarket temperature gauges often came with a kit of special washers etc to put the sender in the top radiator hose. This has two advantages over the top tank - you don't have to make a hole in the (expensive) radiator tank, and the temperature will still register when the coolant level is below the tank! It would not be hard to make the washers to match the curvature of the hose.

You coud dril & tap the thermostat housing , I was lucky with my 80" S1 it had the alloy housing that have plugs in them for the heater & sender unit. Attachment 146422Attachment 146423