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I think my paint problems may be being too quick to second coat will wet/dry sand bonnet tomorrow and have another go.
all I did today was paint inside of vacuum canister .....and run my engine for 20mins still sounds sweet :)no tappet noise:cool:
Cheers Paul
Wet and dried bonnet very carefully
then mixed thinners paint very accurately took a deep breath and sprayed.
end result something I can live with.:)
So my mantra is going to be hasten slowly with painting ;)
In the light of the above......I've got a lot of painting to do guards, tub and tailgate and don't want to rush it, I wont post every day.
But when I get that sorted and continue deconstruction I will post again as I value and need your knowledge.
Cheers paul
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
Went to Bairnsdale to get more paint and they gave me the spec sheets
Cheers Paul
Decided after a lot of deliberation I didn't want head lights in the guards.
Being out in the sticks I went for a DIY approach ...........fairly confident it will work, sound deadened the inside at the same time mainly to try and stop electrolysis.
Not being a rivet counter :oI'm figuring the eight extra rivets that will be seen on each guard will blend into the already rivety feel of the vehicle;)
will post more pictures when I've painted guard to see how it looks
Cheers Paul
Disconnecting electrics for drivers guard removal I found this...
Could it be a relay for a traxside lightning upgrade are are they a common relay for other things
Cheers Paul
The most common relay for 'roll your own' lighting upgrade. I have them on both my Landrovers!
John
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
So I'm guessing this relay is electrically important..............I will value your input when I'm putting everything back together .
Dumb question ............what does it do? I figured maybe driving lights in original light position
I'm pretty hands on but I'm still learning electrical..............I hope current flows a bit like water, that's how wiring diagrams appear to me
anyway down the track if I'm stumped Ill ask questions
Cheers Paul
Series (and later) Landrovers run the entire current for the headlights through both the main headlight switch and the hi/lo switch. This involves a lot of unnecessary voltage drop, especially if you run higher than standard wattage in the lights.
The simplest, most effective and cheapest lighting upgrade you can make is to fit one of these relays close to the headlights (which are already close to the battery) so that there is minimum voltage drop to the lights. Just run the high and low wires from the switches to the relay, power direct from the battery, and short wires from the relay to the lights (plus earth for the relay). These relays incorporate fuses, which is something Series Landrovers (especially Series 1/2/2a) are short on.
John
Still painting and getting marginally better at it:)
One guard sound deadened and top coated to finish....... second almost ready to prime and paint. Next big bit will probably be tailgate followed by tub.
Question?...the nuts in picture (windscreen pivot bolt nuts) what is the purpose of the slots? If they are original there was a plastic cover over the end with slots that I prised off to paint them.....the serrations seemed to provide the grip to keep them on
Just curious never seen anything like it
Cheers Paul
These are a variety of self locking nut. The slots enable the round bit to be compressed axially so that the thread binds a little to make sure it does not come loose. The plastic cover is to make it slightly less dangerous for pedestrians.
The nuts are plated with zinc using the sherardising process, and were originally unpainted. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sherardising)
John