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Thread: Bought a series2... I think.

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    294
    Well all done. Chassis look amazing after the two coats of rustseal. After brushing it on it all evened out it looked flash as. Then we applied the topcoat stuff and it doesn't look half as good. Wished we hadn't put it on really. In reality the only part that will be seen is the back of the rear bar so I might give it a light sand and spray further down the track.
    2003 D2a TD5 Auto
    1960 Series 2, work in progress

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    294
    I am looking at fitting a kit to my carby soon, I believe its from 186, its number is 2376050. I noticed thought the adapter that is between it and the intake look different to other photos Ive seen. It seems there is a home made part which turns the carby 90 degrees, and thats sitting on another small block which has a pipe coming out of it, which looks blocked off....
    Anyone have any idea what I am looking at? Or which adapter is needed to made it look less dodgy?

    EDIT - Found the required adapter. Part number seems to be STC541 and they are worth between 100 - 250 dollars! FAR OUT
    Thanks.
    carb1.jpgAttachment 130950carb3.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    20,485
    There is a somewhat similar adapter for the Zenith, but I don't think that is what you have. Not sure about the other bit with the blocked off vacuum port - I'd have to look at a manual to check that.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    294
    Brake lines all done, new electronic dizzy, new aftermarket carby fitted. Exhaust mostly on, I forgot to order the ring brackets so I might just weld a piece of 3mm metal from the exhaust and attach that to the rubber hanger.
    Doesn't blow and smoke on idle or while revving, but blows a bit but not tons when you stop revving it. Honestly, don't know enough about engines to know what this means. Hopefully, finish the exhaust, fit the new brake adjusters and a couple of wheel studs this weekend.
    Getting scary close to haveing to work out how to paint a car....

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    20,485
    Probably valve stem seals, although that usually produces most smoke when accelerating after idling for a few minutes.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    294
    Ran into my first issue of the reassembly. Decided to fit the drive shafts since I didn't have much else to do. Rear one had to be completely compressed to fit and the front one is about 5mm from reaching at all which would imply the transfer case is sitting a bit too far back. Although we did weld on the gearbox mount into its current position, and the one we replaced was certainly not stock and therefore maybe not in the right place. The engine mounts were never touched and everything seems to be sitting right. Might loosen all the mounts over the weekend and see if I can ratchet strap it all forwards a bit.
    I am also worn out from the day at work so tomorrow it might all see blatantly obvious to whats wrong.

    EDIT - So I assumed the springs were same left and right. Maybe they are incorrect and putting the diff out of place. I hope not as that would be a very silly mistake....

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    294
    So turns out the rear shaft had more to compress, but due to the rubber cover I had clamped on it bunching up, it seemed to have reached its limit. Quite embarrassing.
    Front shaft ill just fit a spacer. Crysis over.

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