They are 3/8 HT. Place didn't have fine thread. They are locked in place using perminate thread lock. I had seen other people use fine thread but the ones I removed were coarse. I assume not the originals though.
Sent from my ANE-LX2J using Tapatalk
Printable View
They are 3/8 HT. Place didn't have fine thread. They are locked in place using perminate thread lock. I had seen other people use fine thread but the ones I removed were coarse. I assume not the originals though.
Sent from my ANE-LX2J using Tapatalk
Correct bolts are BSF, with selflocking nuts. I would expect UNF with self locking nuts would be a satisfactory replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
This jack came with the car when I bought it. Anyone know if it's a land rover jack or just some random old one? I'll clean it up and paint it if it's a land rover one.
Found a guy in town to do some new windscreens and will be getting tyres fitted to some rims I just got for the spares very soon. So close to rego!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dbb5fec902.jpg
Looks like a old Holden jack
If you scroll down this page you'll confirm it's probably from a Holden sales-holden
I've managed to find a few from Toyota, Nissan etc. at trash & treasure markets that should do the job.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4417/...fd810cb8_z.jpgDSCN3859 by Colin Radley, on Flickr
Finding an original (my series I has a King Dick jack) is difficult nowadays but they are out there.....
Colin
Your jack is one that was supplied with many Australian built cars in the1950s and 1960s, but not, as far as I recall, with Landrovers. But it is quite suitable - I used one in my 2a for years before I replaced it with an early Landcruiser jack, much better than that or the one supplied by Rover. Similar (but not identical to) the second from the left in Colin's picture. I made a (permanently attached) adapter to use the crankhandle on it.
Just the windscreen to go!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...68b5d1791b.jpg
It does seem I am having issues with the cheap aftermarket zenith carb though. It is looking like it is running rich. If I wind in the mixture screw all the way the engine continues to run. If I kink the fuel hose it starts to run really well.
I have checked the floats and they are in spec. I did see though in the upper half of the carb where the Oring sits on there were some rough leftover parts from manufacturing which would have not let the Oring seal properly. I rubbed them back with some fine sandpaper and tried again. Still the same issue. So I don't know if that was ever the problem or if the Oring has been slightly damaged. Ran out of light so Ill continue tomorrow.
One thing I did notice is that the fuel in the bowl was right up to the level of the Oring, I would have thought the float would have cut it out lower than that? Does anyone know if that is a sign of the problem? I have very minimal knowledge of carbs.
The Zenith has an orifice on the top of the float chamber that needs blocking off with a tiny rubber plug.
Have got specific details somewhere & will try to find them.
I'm sure someone else here is aware of it & can advise sooner, meantime I will keep looking.
tick tock tick tock....Found it . I will scan it & post it here.
Hope this helps.Attachment 146621
Leakage past the O-ring is almost certainly the issue. This may be because the O-ring is damaged, because the sealing surfaces are not good enough, or because the O-ring is too hard. I had similar issues with my new carburettor, and eventually fixed it by putting the O-ring in from the old carburettor!
Might be worth taking the O-ring to your local bearing/seal shop and see if they can match it; in fact, it is just possible that they have a reference for the correct O-ring.
Other possible issues could be if the top (or the main body) does not have a perfectly flat face, so that the pressure is not properly applied to the O-ring - both surfaces can be lapped flat with wet and dry on a flat surface (plate glass). Also check that burrs, incorrect screws etc do not allow the screws holding the emulsion block to contact the main body when the top is tightened.
When tightening down the top, screw it down evenly turning the two screws on each side of hte choke half a turn at a time one after the other, once they are bearing on the top, and just take up the slack on the other two as they become loose.
Hope this helps.
