Bought a series2... I think.

Dumped and oil and filled it with some new 20W50. And did a full flush on the coolant. No change.
I do wonder though if maybe its the gauge displaying incorrectly. Only because if I let it idle long enough it reaches the same high temp as I get if I go for a drive. I would think if there was a cooling issue that it would be hotter after a drive.
Since both the gauge, sender and voltage stabilizer I've never had the car in a situation where I've seen it all working.
Ill let it idle with the rad cap off soon and check the water temp with a temp probe I have.

Edit - so after letting it idle and the guage creep up close to red my temp probe is ready .... 75. I suspect my issue isnt the engine actually over heating at all.....

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Originally Posted by singlecell

Dumped and oil and filled it with some new 20W50. And did a full flush on the coolant. No change.
I do wonder though if maybe its the gauge displaying incorrectly. Only because if I let it idle long enough it reaches the same high temp as I get if I go for a drive. I would think if there was a cooling issue that it would be hotter after a drive.
Since both the gauge, sender and voltage stabilizer I've never had the car in a situation where I've seen it all working.
Ill let it idle with the rad cap off soon and check the water temp with a temp probe I have.

Edit - so after letting it idle and the guage creep up close to red my temp probe is ready .... 75. I suspect my issue isnt the engine actually over heating at all.....

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when was the the radiator last cleaned out jim

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Originally Posted by russellrovers

when was the the radiator last cleaned out jim

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It's a new one. Flushed it out today just incase anyway.

I don't think there is an engine issue now. I bought infrared thermometer today. I let it idle all the way into the red in the guage. The block was 78 degrees and the radiator was 81. Far from over heating. I filled the fuel tank for the first time and it only reads 3/4 full. I have both gauges on a voltage regulator and its outputting 10volts. Something isn't right with it though. But at least I can be happy my engine isn't about to die.

Well the fuel guage was out as I must have twisted the needle a bit when unpacking/installing it. Once straightened it now reads full.
Temp gauge I got no idea. Reads in the red when the top of the radiator/block is around 80. The sender reads around 53ohms when the engine is just over 80. No idea if that is correct or not. But adding around 24ohms to the sender's wire puts it back into the middle.

And yes, I did check I hadn't damaged it also.....

This is probly too late now but just got desk top back from having new hard drive fitted & couple of new programs installed . These are from my S2 parts book.
Attachment 146938 Attachment 146939 Attachment 146940Attachment 146941
I could not find anything in the parts book on fitting a temp gauge nor a thermostat housing with the two plugs to take the heater tap & temp gauge.
Hope this is of some help . My S1 parts book does not show the alloy thermostat housing with the two threaded holes either . but does list a thermostat housing for North America & a housing for non north American but only gives the two part numbers
I hope this is of some help .
Wayne

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

This is probly too late now but just got desk top back from having new hard drive fitted & couple of new programs installed . These are from my S2 parts book.
Attachment 146938 Attachment 146939 Attachment 146940Attachment 146941
I could not find anything in the parts book on fitting a temp gauge nor a thermostat housing with the two plugs to take the heater tap & temp gauge.
Hope this is of some help . My S1 parts book does not show the alloy thermostat housing with the two threaded holes either . but does list a thermostat housing for North America & a housing for non north American but only gives the two part numbers
I hope this is of some help .
Wayne

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The setup looks quite different to the 2.25L setup. I did a fair amount of scouring the internet and am fairly certain the top hole that the sender was in is for the heater. In reality, it probably doesn't matter which one is used for the sender.

I have been driving all over town the last couple of days and what a hoot it is to drive. Although I have quickly learnt what I thought was an oil leak free vehicle suddenly isn't after it has finally had a bunch of real driving done! Seems like most of it is coming from the top of the Gearbox/TC/Overdrive. The plate on top of the overdrive seems to have quite an amount of oil on it even though I haven't even been using it, so I will add a proper breather hose to it. While doing that will probably add one to the TC and the gearbox. The breather on my gearbox does look different from most the others I can see. And there doesn't seem to be any part reference to it. Most the ones I've seen are a plate inserted into the top with a small breather hole in it. Mine its a cap with a washer being held down with an arm. Is there any significance to that? That's where I would have taped in a breather but I don't really want to ruin that cap but drilling it and sticking it down. The washer that seals it obviously requires replacing but I don't locate where to purchase a new one. I would cut out my own but I am unsure what material it is made off.
Attachment 146957

I have also found my oil light is starting to come on while idling after the engine has had a decent run. Going to try a new oil switch before assuming conrod bearings are starting to wear.

Also, does anyone know if the three rubber seals that are under the nuts on top of the rocker cover are an item that can be purchased locally? Or are they going to be some land rover specific size that I am going to have to specially order? I am going to check the tappets but my current seals are next to gone.

What you are showing is the gearbox filler. That is a relatively early gearbox with a top filler and dipstick - later ones had a level plug in the LH side, and assumed you filled it through there with a pump. The oversdrive is well behind that, accessed by removing the panel under the centre seat.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

What you are showing is the gearbox filler. That is a relatively early gearbox with a top filler and dipstick - later ones had a level plug in the LH side, and assumed you filled it through there with a pump. The oversdrive is well behind that, accessed by removing the panel under the centre seat.

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I filled it using the top cap with the little level on the side open to know when to stop. So would this filler cap also act as the breather for the gearbox?

I've added a breather to both the overdrive and TC already so hopefully that will stop some of the mess.

Has anyone had any success with the selector orings being replaced? It seems whenever I look up anything about it people's say the new ones still weep oil anyway.

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Although I have quickly learnt what I thought was an oil leak free vehicle suddenly isn't after it has finally had a bunch of real driving done! Seems like most of it is coming from the top of the Gearbox/TC

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Well, now you really know it is a true Land Rover with the mandatory oil leaks.[smilebigeye]

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Originally Posted by 4bee

Well, now you really know it is a true Land Rover with the mandatory oil leaks.[smilebigeye]

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With the combination of the Series 2 and the Disco 2 I don't know if the misses will let me drive through the front gate any more [bigrolf]