Page 13 of 13 FirstFirst ... 3111213
Results 121 to 127 of 127

Thread: Series 2a - My First Restoration

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Not quite true in Oz. From the early days in Australia the engines had problems dealing with the higher ambient temperatures so the four cylinders in Oz were specified with the diesel 4 core radiators. You're unwise to use the 3 core particularly if you use the vehicle a lot or do hard off highway use.
    Aluminium replacement cores are cheaper than the copper cores. If you use green coolant make sure you replace it every 12 months as the glycol becomes corrosive to the alloy.
    Thank you Chops, Rod and Lotz-A for the help.

    Are the aluminium ones you refer to the e-bay special ones?
    I'm not going to be doing hard off road work on this Land Rover - It'll be more of a Sunday Driver, with the potential to cruise around the farm if it's good conditions. Given this - is there a relatively cheaper option you'd recommend? or it it worth getting the original re-cored?

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Romsey Country Vic
    Posts
    277
    Dunno where you are in Melbourne - I've had rads built by Campbellfield Radiators - for older cars , beaut work and priced right - 3 core HD for a Valiant was just under $700.
    3 years on it still a ripper .
    No connection ,just did a good job .

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Narre Warren Sth - Albury
    Posts
    6,294
    My quote was friom a guy in Clayton, and it is to match what i currently have.
    I'm sure that mine is a 4 core, which can be replaced by an alloy core, quite cheaply if i remember correctly, at about $500 (?), but I'd prefer to have it as an original.
    Marcus & Leeanne
    2016.5 Loire Blue HSE D4
    1971 S2a Wide Light
    2011 Crew Cab, Gone.


    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...permagrin.html
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii...ide-light.html

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    East-South-East Girt-By-Sea
    Posts
    17,653
    Most of the cheap ones you find about the traps are sourced out of the UK, are 3 row core and have a round top tank of the Series 3 design. Judges at display days may mark down this top tank as not original.

    If you're pedantic about things like these you may want to re-core rather than replace.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    50
    Quote Originally Posted by Rextheute View Post
    Dunno where you are in Melbourne - I've had rads built by Campbellfield Radiators - for older cars , beaut work and priced right - 3 core HD for a Valiant was just under $700.
    3 years on it still a ripper .
    No connection ,just did a good job .
    Quote Originally Posted by Chops View Post
    My quote was friom a guy in Clayton, and it is to match what i currently have.
    I'm sure that mine is a 4 core, which can be replaced by an alloy core, quite cheaply if i remember correctly, at about $500 (?), but I'd prefer to have it as an original.
    Thanks Rex and Chops, judging by the sounds of that $800 doesn't seem too bad. Although... its worth more than what I paid for the car in the first place!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Most of the cheap ones you find about the traps are sourced out of the UK, are 3 row core and have a round top tank of the Series 3 design. Judges at display days may mark down this top tank as not original.

    If you're pedantic about things like these you may want to re-core rather than replace.
    Not too sure I'm pedantic about those things. I wasn't even thinking I'd ever enter this car into a comp. I doubt I'd go well at all. This is my first attempt at this so the workmanship wouldn't be up there. Plus I have metric bolts, parabolic springs, braided brake lines. Wouldn't I get penalised for all those things?

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    50
    The weather was surprisingly good this weekend, so I managed to get a bit of painting done.
    I stripped the internal sides of the wings as they were discoloured and stained. I first stripped them with a wire wheel, then went over it with wet dry sand paper. I then primed the sides and painted over it with a pressure pack paint. Once the colour coats dried, I applied a clear coat with a hardner to protect it. I have heard stories of clear coats discolouring when exposed to heat, so I will see how this goes. Once again I found tape and aluminium foil the best way to mask off surfaces.

    IMG_6207.jpg IMG_6212.jpg IMG_6217.jpg

    I have purposely left the external panels untouched. It is my intention to have everything under the hood to look 'near-new' along the with cockpit, whilst leaving the chipped paint externally to keep its character.

    I also managed to do the seat box too. Same methodology as above. There is some aluminium corrosion present, however I have treated it and it will be situated under the floor panels.
    IMG_6216.jpg

    I also started polishing the headlight chrome rim. I just used a metal polish and it came up looking nice. The picture below is showing treated area vs worn condition.

    IMG_6222.jpg

    Once the headlight assemblies were put in the wings and the panels were dry, I was able to put in the front right wing! Starting to look like something you can drive.

    IMG_6224.jpg

    Thats all I could get done on the weekend.

    Next, I will have to get the manifold studs out as they have corroded threads and with the new exhaust I can't tighten the nuts enough. Best option I've seen on the internet is an Oxy torch (which I don't have). Heat them up and then apply cold water straight away, then they can twist out. I have tried vice grips to twist and soaked the manifold studs in WD40 for weeks, but they aren't coming out. Is there another effective method that can be used here?

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hobart Tasmania
    Posts
    3,429
    I was shown that tightening the nuts a tad first before trying to loosen works. Dont think wd40 is strong enough... have you tried diesel? I use diesel as my no1 lube and for many nut/bolts i have successfully removed them.
    Carlos
    1995 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1964 Land Rover Series 2a 88 - current project rebuild
    1967 Viscount Ambassador 20ft Classic Caravan
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3RwTvV8BtsNIuTyGkAo5w

Page 13 of 13 FirstFirst ... 3111213

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!