Series 2a - My First Restoration

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gromit

Some parts for the 6-cylinder are getting scarce (read expensive). I needed piston rings and was quoted some crazy prices FFR Refurb

The motor in my FFR has been painted blue. Probably a particular engine re-builder painted them blue after they were reconditioned.

The exhaust tappets can be adjusted in situ but you have to remove the dipstick assembly or some people remove the exhaust manifold. Have done them in situ and you have to get on top of the motor & hang upside down virtually.

6-cylinder water pumps can be expensive (if you can source one) but I understand that the bearing/shaft assembly from the 4-cylinder pump can be modified to fit.


Best of luck with the rebuild.


Colin

---

If it's only rings you need, I recall finding some from something else that would fit but for the life of me I can't remember what. I ended up getting a set of OS pistons and rings for mine.

I'll see if I can find where I wrote it down.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Homestar

If it's only rings you need, I recall finding some from something else that would fit but for the life of me I can't remember what. I ended up getting a set of OS pistons and rings for mine.

I'll see if I can find where I wrote it down.

---

I found some that would fit but the piston ring grooves needed widening. Then got a set from Canada via ebay for about $99 landed.


Colin

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Homestar

If it's only rings you need, I recall finding some from something else that would fit but for the life of me I can't remember what. I ended up getting a set of OS pistons and rings for mine.

I'll see if I can find where I wrote it down.

---

Standard bore size is 3.062" (3 1/16th"), common with a few other makes of engines, so you may find a set of rings that will do the job.
Holden grey motor, so possibly some Chev engines too.

Cheers, Mick.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gromit

I found some that would fit but the piston ring grooves needed widening. Then got a set from Canada via ebay for about $99 landed.


Colin

---

You've got a lathe.... [bigwhistle]

Thanks Homestar, I might have to take you up on that one! Always keen to learn a new skill.

Gromit - Champ thanks for the advice mate. What FFR mean? I thought my water pump was OK, does it not look right?

Paul - I'm a week or so behind in posting of where I am (I decided to start posting late). So It looks like i'm steaming ahead, but in reality it's a little different.
In regards to removing the harness, I used a simple letter and number system. Mark each end with a letter and number eg A1 to A1, A2 to A2 and took photos of which end connected where. There is probably a better system out there though. With the bulk head, I plan to get it blasted. I've ordered some foot wells from the UK and hope to get them welded on. hopefully once they are replaced, it'll look much more respectable.

I've started to strip the engine now and mask up for priming.
Under the breather, I found these two holes, looks like they are slowly rusting out. Is this a problem? How would you stop it?
Attachment 121735

I've gone and masked up all the welsh plugs, gasket areas and holes in the engine. I found aluminium foil to be fantastic to cover the head and rocker cover.
I applied paint stripper to remove the paint. There was a bit of rust on the block, so I took to that with a wire wheel. Seems to work well.
I made sure I did that a couple of times, removing all surface rust. I then applied degreaser, to clean it. following with a couple of washes with metho. I wipe the block down with a white rag and once It didn't come up dirty I decided to paint.
Attachment 121736

I applied a primer (I think the jury is out on this one. Plenty of people saying not to bother with the paint I am using).

Attachment 121737

After a couple of light coats with the primer I then started with the final colour. It's technically called 'Alpine Diesel Green' - closest I could find to the duck egg blue - this forum came in handy for that one! It came out nice though! photos, play tricks on the colour and doesn't represent it accurately.

Attachment 121738Attachment 121739

Does anyone know how to remove the stains from the head and rocker cover?
I've used the plastic steel 'wire' wheel to try and remove but I don't want to go too aggressive first. I've tried an Aluminum polish but that doesn't really work. I think the next step might be hydrocloric acid.
Attachment 121740

Hi Jim, for cleaning alloy parts, and parts I don't want to get too aggressive with, I use one of these with baking soda:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/04/766.jpg

Cheers,

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimM

Gromit - Champ thanks for the advice mate. What FFR mean? I thought my water pump was OK, does it not look right?

---

FFR is Fitted For Radio (mine is ex military). No idea if anything is wrong with your water pump....just giving you the 'heads up' that some parts are difficult/expensive to replace.


Colin

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gromit

FFR is Fitted For Radio (mine is ex military). No idea if anything is wrong with your water pump....just giving you the 'heads up' that some parts are difficult/expensive to replace.


Colin

---

Cheers, Thanks Colin! I've noticed that the parts are usually hard to come by, so doesn't surprise me that they are expensive! Hopefully I only need to replace common stuff when rebuilding.

TimNZ - Thanks mate, i'll try to find one of those! looks like it'll do the job well.

Those holes behind the breather are supposed to be there - they lead straight into the crankcase - they look like that as they never cleaned them up after casting - nothing to worry about, they look the same on all the engines I've got and have oil running over them so they won't rust. :)

Cleaning the alloy - Maybe Tim NZ's Idea is a good one if you're not pulling the engine apart. I've taken some bits into a water blaster in Dandenong but they need to be completely stripped so the abrasive can be washed out properly afterwards. They come up all shiny and better than new but it's not a budget excersize either that way.

If the water pump is spinning freely and holding water, then nothing to worry about yet. If you need to ever replace it they are very hard to come by but old ones that aren't just a lump of rust can be rebuilt with new seals - a lathe is required but once it's done, you can then use off the shelf seals for the rest of its life. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Homestar

Those holes behind the breather are supposed to be there - they lead straight into the crankcase - they look like that as they never cleaned them up after casting - nothing to worry about, they look the same on all the engines I've got and have oil running over them so they won't rust. :)

Cleaning the alloy - Maybe Tim NZ's Idea is a good one if you're not pulling the engine apart. I've taken some bits into a water blaster in Dandenong but they need to be completely stripped so the abrasive can be washed out properly afterwards. They come up all shiny and better than new but it's not a budget excersize either that way.

If the water pump is spinning freely and holding water, then nothing to worry about yet. If you need to ever replace it they are very hard to come by but old ones that aren't just a lump of rust can be rebuilt with new seals - a lathe is required but once it's done, you can then use off the shelf seals for the rest of its life. :)

---

Thanks mate. I thought those holes looked strange, but that explains a lot. Pump was spinning freely and holding water prior to puling the engine out. I'm more than happy to take the rocker cover off, need to replace the gasket, but don't really want to take the head off. I have a feeling that a few of the gaskets on this engine have been replaced, there is gasket cement clearly visible - as gromit said the blue paint hints to an engine re builder. I will try to blast the cover and head this weekend. I'll let you know how I go.