I'll remove everything and start again, making sure I put the clutch plate the right way around!
Remember..." When in doubt...fat side out" with the clutch plate...
Cheers Rod
Cheers, thanks mate. Yep, spigot bush is still there. Good to know I was on the right track with some things!
I'm just east of Pakenham. I'll have another crack at it this weekend. I'll remove everything and start again, making sure I put the clutch plate the right way around! If I cant get it right, I might have to call in the cavalry. Would've have been good to get it done last weekend, as I'm picking of the Bbulkhead this weekend. I should be able to get both done though.
Thanks for all your help guys!
I'll remove everything and start again, making sure I put the clutch plate the right way around!
Remember..." When in doubt...fat side out" with the clutch plate...
Cheers Rod
Not too far away at all. Thanks for the offer, but I might need your help next time! I finally got the gearbox in.
I removed the pressure plate and clutch plate as we all thought it was the wrong way around. Turns out it was the right way around to begin with. Here are the photos of it front and back. last time we tried getting the gearbox in it was getting dark, so we were probably trying to rush - making a meal of it.
Correct way ("fat side out"):
IMG_4753.jpg
Wrong way:
IMG_4751.jpg
As you can see in the above photo, it's not possible to put the clutch plate in the wrong way as it would not sit flush with the flywheel surface. I cleaned the spline thoroughly in the gear box then attempted to put it all back in.
I did it all back up (like described in my previous post) and it just slid in first try! very happy with that result.
IMG_4754.jpg
I forgot to mention last time, that the replacement gearbox mount had a thread that was slightly larger hitting the chassis so it wouldn't sit flush with the chassis side of the mount. I had to tighten the mount in a vice, then slightly grind the thread down so it would sit flush.
IMG_4676.jpg
There was also a delay with the bulkhead, so I'm picking it up this weekend. I'll maybe try and make a start on the electrics after that.
I picked up the bulk head and a few other pieces this weekend. Came out well.
IMG_4797.jpg IMG_4800.jpg
I didn't have too much difficulty fitting it.
When I put one bulkhead bolt through, I found out it was slightly off.
IMG_4796.jpg
As you can see the bolt holes in the bulk head and outrigger didn't quite align. I used a crow bar on the left of the bolt hole and placed it against the front tire to slightly push it out. The bolt went straight through after that.
I fitted a few different pieces I picked up, just to see what it looked like.
IMG_4809.jpg
Next stop - electrics. I have no Idea what I'm doing in that area!
Carlos
1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1996 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/
I've now had a crack at putting the harness in. With a help of a friend and a few beers one night, we have most of the wiring done. The Autospark harness has been great and when read with the wiring diagram is rather straight forward. The new harness makes a huge difference and looks nice and neat. I've also finally got the old bus undercover for the first time. It's quite nice being able to work on it past dark and out of the cold!
First thing we did was get out the old harness, so we could reference which end was what on the new harness and set it up quite basically.
IMG_5918.jpg IMG_5926.jpg
From there we worked our way back using the diagram on one branch of the harness at a time.
I had to remove one bulk head pin and pivot the bulkhead to allow us to feed through the wiring loom to the rear crossmember.
IMG_5919.jpg
After this we connected up the engine components. The next job was the gauges. I haven't painted the gauge panel yet, so we removed it and we connected each gauge and switch up ready to insert once the panel has been painted.
IMG_5921.jpg IMG_5924.jpg
Obviously there are differences between the British built land rover S2a and the Aus built, so there are some discrepancies in the wiring loom (I may have gotten these wrong and misread the diagram so any feed back or corrections on these are welcome!).
Things to note are:
- I found that the fuel gauge sender is in the loom which goes to the rear crossmember / lights. I will need to bring this back towards the front along the chassis rail to connect up to fuel tank under my drivers seat.
- The cold start connection on the wiring loom is an eyelet connection, when on the motor its a spade. I will need to change the fitting here to work
- The alternator modification I got will need to be changed just slightly. I have to change 2 of the cable ends to eyelet connections.
- I've got a small separate loom of (3 wires from memory) blue wires with white and red markings, which I don't know what its for. I have a feeling this might be for the wiper motor).
We also has a crack at the front brake lines, once the majority of the wiring was done. One brake line was too long, so had to twist it a couple of times around a duct tape roll to lose the extra length. Worked very well and looks quite neat.
IMG_5928.jpg
Next steps for me now are to start putting some body panels back on. That way I can start connecting up the lights and start trouble shooting from there. Slowly getting there.
I recently received a new order from overseas, so I was able to pick up the tools again and continue chipping away at the project.
First job was to finish off the brake lines. I received the new braided brakes lines. These were standard length plus 2 inches to allow for the parabolic suspension. I've heard that these are better than the rubber hoses however, I think the jury is out. I'll soon find out.
Just a shot of how the brakes lines matched up. I was pretty apprehensive before taking on the brake line job, but was surprised about how straight forward it was - even only bending them by hand.
IMG_6003.jpg IMG_6008.jpg
I remember reading on this forum that it is critical you purchase the right tie rod ends for your car. On closer inspection my car was fitted with the wrong ones. As you can see in the photo below the rods in the linkage are only partly treaded, with the tie rod ends fully threaded. I made sure I got the tie rod ends to match.
IMG_6020.jpg IMG_6019.jpg
I then installed the steering linkage. I read somewhere that the bottom arm and top arm of the steering relay have to be offset by 81 degrees from each other (as opposed to 90 degrees). Is this correct? This is how I set mine up.
IMG_6048.jpg IMG_6044.jpg
I adjusted the rod lengths so the wheels were aligned with a slight toe-in and then put the steering wheel on.
I think I've found the centre of the steering box, with the wheel turning evenly both ways. I was rather pedantic about not adjusting the steering column / box to ensure I didn't much it up. Although I think there is some fine tuning required.
IMG_6045.jpg
According to my books, Series 1 is 81 degrees, but Series 2a is 90 degrees. I doubt it is significant though - may change the lock slightly.
One point I dis note when checking this - make sure that the steering link between the steering box and the relay does not come closer than an inch to the brake line, bending the brake line if necessary.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Oh Awesome! Thanks mate. I'm obviously reading rebuild threads on all the series and mixing them up. This information might come in handy for a series 1 rebuild - If i ever manage to find one!
I might have to check the distance between those two now you mention it. Did it mention why one inch? I run my brake lines on top of that chassis rail, then down and behind the front crossmember for the front left wheel. If I have clips securing the brake line in place, would that eliminate the perceived risk?
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