Thread: My first series 2a project

You may be able to put a flating agent in the chassis black.

I tried the dymark brand and chose to go white knight. What ever you choose stick with the same brand from primer to top coat.

I have a question re front leafs. I have pulled them apart and the leafs with the folded over tabs have been either broken off or I cut a slot on the side to fold over for disasembly. My question is, why is there folded tabs and not the nut/bolt? I dont want to put the tabbed leaf on, in fact i was thinking of using the nut/bolt leaf off the rear leaf springs on the 109. This leaf is slightly longer (from memory) and the nut/bolt will sit above the leafs.

Couple of points i had doing this: i can disassemble the leafs in the bush if a leaf breaks, and due to higher set bolt, this should allow for potential greater drop when axle is unloaded.

I noticed many leaf are like this now too. Is there any issues you can think of me using the 109 leaf instead if the original folded tab one?

Check for clearance of the bolt type from the track rod (at all angles of steering and spring rebound). I have an idea that there is inadequate clearance.

Axle drop is limited by damper travel, not the spring, but the folded over setup would reduce rebound and increase interleaf friction and hence damping during rebound (which is what you want), although I rather doubt the effect is significant with these springs, although it is significant with the rear "station wagon" dual rate springs, which have the bolt type clamp with a lot of space.

Thanks, didnt even think about the steering components!! I'll have a look but yeah I think you may be spot on with this.

Cheers,

Well progressing slowly with the build, started working on the front swivel/hub assembly now and got the springs still waiting for bits to reassemble. I was thinking about using copper slip paste between the leafs to protect them from rusting as i am not painting them, the only treatment was rust converter. Ideas on this?

Latest vid to date:

Got a question on the front axle case oil seal... the one that fits on the ends of the case where the swivel assembly bolts on to it. I am thinking of running without these seals, so that the diff/swivel is the same. Has anyone done this before?

Yes, you can do away with these but be aware if you spring a decent oil leak from the swivels you'll lose your diff oil too. Why do want to or what gains do you think you'll achieve?