Thread: My first series 2a project

Originally Posted by Cap

Thought of that too, loss of oil. Given its the same oil used for both the same situation applies to the rear axle and I think you would get more lubrication due to volume across the diff/axle/swivels allowing for more lubrication and cooling. For the rears you could also lose all the diff oil through the seals/oring also so same situation.

Yeah, I get that, but I've really seen the swivels or king oins suffer through lack of lubrication from having the correct amount of oil in there. Sure, I've seen plenty with no oil that aren't pretty but that's my point - the swivel seals can leak quite a bit and I've seen a stick get caught in one which caused a loss of all the oil on that side - no dramas really to drive home like that a short distance as everything stays lubed for a while but it would be if you removed the axle seals and the same thing happened. Chances are pretty slim I must admit but I woukdn't do it personally.

Originally Posted by Cap

its the same oil used for both the same situation applies to the rear axle and I think you would get more lubrication due to volume across the diff/axle/swivels allowing for more lubrication and cooling.

How do you get 'more' lubrication ? It's either lubricated or not, volume & heat transfer I understand but not 'more' lubrication.

The designers felt it better to separate the oil in the swivels & the diff., some reasons are already mentioned.

Lets say you do remove the seals.......
Looking at the level plugs the oil levels are similar on a level road. On a steep incline to one side a lot of the lubricant from the uphill swivel transfers to the diff then from the diff to the downhill swivel. When you level up again how does the oil get back ? Some will flow back but some ends up having to run uphill, through the axle tube and back into what was the downhill swivel. This may happen, in time, as oil is thrown around while you travel but equally you may end up with a high level in one swivel and maybe the diff and a low level in the swivel that was uphill
As the swivel seals get older & start to leak a lot of people use a semi liquid grease, how would this affect the diff ?

Better to separate the diff & swivel oils as designed and as most people have run them for decades.....


Colin

Thanks for all your replies. Great points and will install the seals given the risk of total oil loss.

Hmmm, same oil in diff and swivels ? I thought the diff takes 90 EP and the balls take 140 EP, well that's according to lrfaq : Land Rover FAQ - Repair & Maintenance - Series - General - General Maintenance

Is that info incorrect ?

Cheers,
John

I’ve always just stuck the same stuff in both - never had an issue.

The manuals for Series specify 90EP in all of them (and steering box, relay and gearbox/transfer case except Stage 1). The reason for suggesting 140 in the swivels is to reduce leaks, and there is no downside of using it - if you can find it - except it means stocking an additional type of oil.

Just another question, this time on brakes...

I will be fitting the 109 4cyl 11" brakes front and back (already done) to the 88". I will use the 109 master as well and keep the single circuit setup (effectively the entire 109 brake system). The question relates to brake lines. There are kits now available to purchase these complete, so the question(s) is can the 88" brake line kit be used with the 11" brakes and master cylinder? I already have the front brake line between cylinders. Are the threads the same? Are the brake line diameter the same size (3/16) between the 88 and 109?

There are kits I can buy for around $250 which may be cheaper than getting them custom made by a brake specialist - or does anyone recommend where I can buy a kit from?

Thanks again for your assist

I just bought some bundy tube as I have a double flaring tool, so total cost was about $60 but if you have to buy the tools, maybe not as economical but it allows you to make up exactly what you want. I reused all the old fittings.