Thread: My first series 2a project

It takes a bit of practice to get a good flare and a bit more to get a good double hapoening, but not hard. Bundy line is cheap so a couple of stuff ups won't cost you much. Check your PM's - I've just replied to yours.

Originally Posted by Cap

Thanks for that detailed post mate, very much appreciate it. Given im new to it, how many goes did you have at it before you got the final one? Luckily i also got the full 88 brake line that i can copy off exactly, except for the left rear brake to the cylinder but thats easy to do.

Cheers,

As Homestar said.....a few practice runs and you've only used a few inches of tube.


Colin

Well I bought some assorted tools to make my own brake lines, so that will be the next task once I got the front axles complete.

Yesterday I also serviced the Warn M11 freewheeling hubs. One side was pretty good (as shown on my vid), the other side had water in it and had the inner body needle bearing damaged - water rusted the race and needles where mashed and broken.

So I removed the bearing but now I am not sure if such a bearing can be found through a bearing supplier. Has anyone gone through this process with M11 hubs? I know you can get the o-rings from the US, but couldnt find anything on the bearing itself.

Cheers,

Take the remains, and the bearing surface bits, to a bearing supplier. It is likely that they can come up with something that will work. That bearing is not heavily loaded.

Carlos

first class job on the suspension bush installation - great video.

thanks
Angus

I wanted to know at what point did the front drivers side swivel housing arm went from the top position to the bottom. In my 63 88" 2a, its on the top swivel pin, and my 67 109" 2a its at the bottom like Series 3 are. When did the change occur, and are they interchangeable... so if I wanted to put the 109 swivel housing with the lower positioned arm, is that a problem?

Cheers,

They are interchangeable as a whole assembly, but note that the track rod is a different length, and you obviously need to have the same setup both sides.

The bottom mount arms are a better setup, because they impose a side load on the roller bearing not the friction bearing, and also, if there is any free play in the bush, this will not show up in the steering, as the weight of the vehicle ensures that there is never any free play in the bottom bearing except on rebound. In addition, the bottom ones probably protect the tie rod ends a little better.

The parts manual does not specify a changeover date, suggesting that it probably changed at different times in different places.

Making progress, finally!!!