Printable View
Great thread of yours, dont know how i missed this! Im doing the same with mixing parts and i have already made mistakes trying to, but all fixed now. Yes im after the inner race and looking at the bearings both hubs are the same. The race i pulled out was way oversized, so perhaps another bearing as you mention.
I was under the impression you should replace the race and bearing together. As Colin says they differ between brands, I thought even within the same brand you should keep them matched.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap
If you buy the bearing, it comes with a new race, mind you it's not cheap.
Coincidentally, I'm have my half shaft race replaced today be a mate at local mechanical workshop, using the race that came with the new bearing I bought from Paddocks.
Cheers,
John
You shouldn’t really mix the inner race with a different bearing but as the inner race is difficult to remove it doesn’t get changed leading to potential problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnboyLandy
If you’re using freewheel hubs the shaft won’t be rotating except when you lock the hubs.
My problem came from having several drive shafts and trying to find one where the bearing inner or seal collar weren’t rusted.
The pattern bearings aren’t cheap but try to get a genuine ‘name brand’ bearing and it gets even more expensive.
Colin
Great milestone this weekend... I now have all 4 wheels on!! I know its not a biggie but its still progress especially seeing this stage too sooooo long to get here.
Pictures?
If you go to 9:50 in my vids, it shows end result :)
https://youtu.be/zgD_blUFdhU
Looking great Carlos,,
Love your little vids, they are a great supplement to/for any build, and prospective builders whom are a little wary, or perhaps daunted by the prospect of rebuilding something, especially if it's their first time.
Thanks for taking the time to make them, and to be posting them too. [biggrin]
Ok boys and girls... started working on my 2.25 diesel donk. I am doing a series of vids (pun intended) whilst I am at it. It will not be a complete pro strip down, just doing head, oil pump/checks, flywheel/clutch and timing/water pump. So far the head looks to be in great shape, so hopefully rest of engine too.
Starting off with this:
https://youtu.be/-LRgW6VxhCw
Hi Cap, for ur info, the diesel pressure plate has a stronger clamping force than the petrol one. Also check out my Betsy thread. Betsy, my 67 s2a build. to see what i found in my low mileage s3 diesel motor. Not happy. Have new pistons now and all the bits to put it together now but no one seems to have the tool to set up the injector pump so i havent removed it. I need to put a new chain and dampner on it so a bit wary of doing it. Im not a diesel mechanic. Keep up the good vids etc. I watch them all.
Cheers Rod
Rod thanks for letting me know, ill go over your thread again (and no doubt many times over) and see what you found. Im new to this motor so every time i do something I am not sure what to expect.
A few questions for anyone who knows...
1) can i reuse the head bolts if the bolt threads are good?
2) two of the bolts where stud and nut set up, is this normal as my blown motor had two also but in different locations (all the bank where injectors are).
3) I got a copper gasket with my kit, where can i get a composite one and what brand?
4) Do the valve stems require caps like the later diesels do?