Thread: My first series 2a project

I've always used original style bullet connectors, a personal hate is the multi-coloured crimp on connectors on older vehicles.
I've been soldering them onto wiring for old cars, old motorbikes etc. for 40 plus years. Sourcing from the UK (there are several suppliers) is the best option.

There was an interesting discourse on Lucas wiring and bullet connectors on the Internet. Some wag proposed that bullet connectors were designed to hold the wiring harness in place rather than actually transfer electric current. It might be in this copy of an Ebay advert for Lucas smoke Lucas Replacement Smoke Kit

For some reason every Land Rover I own is still on it's original harness. The Series I is a bit worrying because the rubber insulation has decomposed and the outer braiding has also broken down in places. There are a few spots where you can see the electricity traveling through the wires. The electrics on this would be a nightmare to replace because of all the additions etc. but maybe one day.....

If I was to replace a harness I'd probably go with one from Autosparks, they can also supply individual wires with the braided outer. Vinwire do the same locally. The other option is to make my own and get Vinwire to over braid it.


Colin

Carlos
It would be really a lot easier to make a loom on a ‘pegboard’ if you could get a blueprint of lengths.
Does anyone have the lengths for a SWB 2a. I would be very interested in it if available, or could measure one up if I could get an original loom.

I think if i was building to oem standard then using bullets etc would be the way, but i am only reliability and safety and looks is second. As my harness is still intact, i can use it as a guide but of course that will slightly change with additional fuse bank and relays (extras). This is the issue in my mind, as i should maybe build a loom on the bulkhead after positioning the extras so i know the length of wires. Looking at google/youtube/forums to get more ideas before i start. Some cables ill be reusing if the insulation is not hard or damaged. Again this is to get it running and reliable so i can use it, not a show piece 😁

I like this guys approach...

Originally Posted by Cap

Again this is to get it running and reliable so i can use it, not a show piece 😁

Down to personal choice but several of mine are regularly used with original wiring, none of them are trailer queens. Mind you I did trailer the Series I to Cooma but it was driven there 10 years ago and I've not touched the wiring since I've owned it.


Colin

Hey Carlos,

The trailer wiring should be fine.

Also, regarding "- I was thinking of copying the original harness in terms of length for each wire, would this not be the best options for existing wire? "

Sure if you can tell what all the wires are. With mine, a lot of the coloured cloth coatings have disintegrated, which makes it hard to tell which wire does what, so I'll be pretty much starting from scratch. My main harness is still mostly intact, but I'l start carefully removing the outer black cloth slowly and replace it with velcros, so I know where each wire joins/leaves the harness.

I'll hopefully start this weekend.

Cheers,
John

I made mine on my 80" when I restored it 30 years ago but this time around I bought a harness from Vintage Wiring Harness with the extra wires in it ( indicators , ect) I found with the one I made up due to not being able to get correct colours it made it difficult when there was a problem to trace the wires.

Ok, some more info from various sources...

Im told that if i want to modify the original design by adding more fuses etc, then its best to wire it when the bulkhead else it guess work trying to figure out cable lengths etc. So now i need to rethink this, basically figuring out which wires i want to run via a fuse box and or relay and position items on bulkhead then start wiring up.

Any thoughts on this approach?