My first series 2a project

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Originally Posted by LRJim

I found this ages ago I'm gonna use it as a guide when I get around to my s3, it's pretty simple but being a series simple is good. Hope it gives you an idea.

Cheers Jim https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...65d60e44c9.jpg

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The only thing I see wrong with this is they appear to be running the fuel pump though an oil pressure switch - Do yourself a favour and don't do this. While the theory sounds good and when engines are new and build oil pressure quickly this is fine, but as engines, starters and batteries wear, you can get a scenario that the oil pressure won't build up enough for the fuel pump to come on then your stuffed. The 101's were wired like this from the factory. Those that weren't modified in service usually got done shortly after falling into civilian hands.

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Originally Posted by Cap

Ok, some more info from various sources...

Im told that if i want to modify the original design by adding more fuses etc, then its best to wire it when the bulkhead else it guess work trying to figure out cable lengths etc. So now i need to rethink this, basically figuring out which wires i want to run via a fuse box and or relay and position items on bulkhead then start wiring up.

Any thoughts on this approach?

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If you have an old loom you're copying off, then you could make it all off the car when it is in any state an fit it later on, but if you are modifying it a lot, and moving the fuse holder location far, I'd do it once the firewall and engine are all in, and the outer guards are still off.

I'm a long way off doing mine but even when I do it will be quite different from what you'll attempt. I'll be using electronic fuses and CAN bus wiring so hoping to keep it to just 2 wires through the firewall - a main power supply and the CAN line. [biggrin]

Thanks for the great info. I had a closer look tonight at my wiring and traced the burned wire to being one of the headlights. Pulled the cloth tape and removed the fried wire. All others are in good shape, i was very surprised. I am thinking i my be able to save ig as the wire is still subtle and no breaks i the insulation. I also pulled the 109 rear loom, the one that runs in the chassis. Again pretty good so got spare oem wire. Anyway ill see how i go, either way ill put more fuses and relays so cutting will still happen.

Where do you source your rubber grommets from? I want to replace the one for the wiring, so these are for the bulkhead and the two chassis holes. Cant seem to find a definitive list of these anywhere!

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Originally Posted by Cap

Where do you source your rubber grommets from? I want to replace the one for the wiring, so these are for the bulkhead and the two chassis holes. Cant seem to find a definitive list of these anywhere!

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Im interested also in said grommets. Was going to seal up with silastic or similar.
Cheers Rod

Clark rubber has it all even bunnings has them now.
Cheers Jim

I need some help identifying some wires... on the loom going down the bulkhead there are 3 junctions. 1) the floor dip switch wires, 2) the join to the rear loom, and 3) the engine loom.

The main loom has 3 wires, a light green (thick), a light green/red (or is it orange?), and a light green yellow. The L/GY is oil pressure, but the thick green and the L/GR I am not sure as it doesnt seem to show on the diagrams - it shows a l/GU (U = blue) which I believe is the water temp sensor. Not sure where the voltage check goes, is this the thick L/G cable?

Any one got photos? Remembering I am putting a diesel into the petrol loom so I have matched the equivalent ones for oil/temp I think!

EDIT: found a diagram with the L/GR - belongs to the positive earth setup. And the L/G states carb heater element

Sounds like you’ve got it sorted but just in case
Lucas wire colour codes for Land Rover


Colin

With the possibility the wiring is original and +tive earth, I wanted to ask a few questions given I am also putting in a S3 -tive earth engine with alternator.

Reading about this, it seems the only things I need to look at is the gauges - ammeter and fuel. Swapping the wires at the back of the gauges for each one is only required so the needle travels the right way, is this correct?

Aside from these two, everything else should work on a -tive earth setup?

Ammeter - I don't think the fuel gauge is polarity sensitive. The thing to watch though is when Rover changed to -ve earth in 1967, they changed the fuel gauge and neither the gauge nor the sender are interchangeable except as a pair.