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Been a while since I worked as a mechanic (and it was in QLD), but I've never heard of a roadworthy that didn't require pulling all wheels off, then brake drums off to check linings, make sure the drums have the correct thickness, look for leaks and then a brake test with the meter (can't recall the name of it). Tassie must have some very liberal road rules!
They are called a Tapley Meter. I too am an ex Motor Mechanic . also held a an RWC licence way back then also in Qld. Yes we had to do a road test & record the reading off the Tapley Meter when doing a RWC. The new brake testers give a % of braking front & rear also test hand brake %. If the drums have been machined too far O/S they can stretch under hard braking.Quote:
Originally Posted by akelly
Not sure on what the rules are for each state. We dont have yearly roadworthy checks here, once a vehicle is registered its done, no more checks. I did see the mechanics take test drives of more modern vehicles, so perhaps older vehicles dont require it (same as motorbikes are not taken for a test ride)
In Qld you require a RWC to register a vehicle or when selling ( change of registered owner)
Just coming back to brakes, I noticed my master cyl is the CB (fat end) type. I read that they are not as good as the CV type, is this correct? Are these interchangeable? Just looking at options should I nee to update the master cyl also...
The two types are interchangeable, except you have to change (or bend) the pipes as well. My preference is the CV type, because it is simpler to work on, but I have had no reason to think the CB type gives more trouble.
I prefer the CB, my only comment would be to make sure you anneal the copper washer for the endcap. They seem to be delivered 'dead hard' in the kits and annealing gives a much better chance of it actually sealing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap
I've no idea why someone would suggest that they are 'not as good' as the CV type.
Also handy to have a large Whitworth spanner for the nut, if stripping an old one down loosen the nut before removing from the vehicle. Nice to have it firmly held in the pedal box as you struggle with the nut.
I'm trying to think if I've ever had a vehicle with a CV type, are they aluminium ? If so another reason to use the CB which is cast iron.
Colin
Good, then I'm not touching the master as yet... and I got my new drums today so fitting tomorrow. Then if nothing changes, then ill purchase new reputable brand shoes.
Never seen an aluminium one, but they may exist. All the ones I have ever dealt with are cast iron (unlike clutch M/Cs)Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
Just to keep with updates, had a nice drive with the pooch a few days back, vid below. So far the issues encountered are:
1) replaced front drum brakes with new and improved ones... actually impressed with the build quality and heavier than OE ones. Brakes much better now, but stuill not 100% happy with them. Next would be to change to reputable brake shoes...
2) Leaking diesel through injector - I thought this was the line from the pump to the injector not quite sealing right, but ended up being me not tightening the top banjo fuel return. Tightened and now no more leaking diesel
3) Water pump failure, starting to leak and sqeal like ma pig - my fault tho as I did just bang on the old one off the petrol motor (which never looked like it had coolant in it). New pump on the way
4) Rear diff pinion seal - I replaced with new when doing diff work, decided to leak! New seal from blue bag suppliers, wonder if thats an issue [bigwhistle]
5) Leaking (minor at the moment) passenger side front hub - same situation as point above. Will get to it at some stage
6) Radiator re-core - this was always on the cards but I am pleasantly surprised that it still cools and holds pressure even tho it looks ROUGH!
Overall, im having a blast with the Series, I can now relate to those that say it always brings a smile to their faces when they drive it! More adventures to come [biggrin]
https://youtu.be/DrEHYBlWbM8