Funny you mention the vice, I never had one and I was fumbling around, dropping stuff, almost getting injured so I thought, enough of this, im off to Bunnings to get a vice! $160 or so later....
Good to see it's not leaking, but I guess it'd be nice to know why it was empty.
Love be the big vice too 😁
Funny you mention the vice, I never had one and I was fumbling around, dropping stuff, almost getting injured so I thought, enough of this, im off to Bunnings to get a vice! $160 or so later....
Carlos
1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/
Remember it took 40 years to leak out - you won't see it leak in a few days, or probably until you put it back into service - do yourself a favour and change the bottom seal before you reinstall it. It will almost certainly leak when used.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Yes.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Good point, much easier to do now. From what I read its an easy thing to change, remove the top plate and replace the seal... the inside pieces dont come flying out (dont like that compressed spring in there!)
Carlos
1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/
Easy to remove the endplate & replace seal without removing the shaft & spring.
1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)
Only if you find rust inside or wear on the surface the seal bears against do you need to remove the shaft/spring/bushes.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
That's interesting - it used to be in the top bar of the menu at the top of every page. Seems to have disappeared. Send a message to any of the moderators; it must have disappeared in the recent meltdown of the site.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Whilst waiting for the chassis to get sorted, i started painting items such as handbrake, steering relay and air filter. The next thing i want to tackle is the fuel tanks - yes got 2, a stock small 2a and another small tank from a series 1 with cap on tank which will be the aux tank.
I have already removed all the fittings off the tanks and gave them a pressure wash. I now want to strip the paint and left over muck, but here is where i am worries. Both tanks have not had any fuel in them for a long time, but there is still a smell of petrol even tho i washed inside. Would if be ok for me to use the angle grinder with wire wheel for the outside? Im thinking it should be ok, but as it will throw sparks i wanted to ask.
Thoughts?
Carlos
1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/
I've found that petrol can stay in the nooks and crannies even after washing. Had a tank go 'whoosh' on me once when repairing a leak on it. 2 thinks you can try - either fill the tank with water to the brim when working on it - add a bit of dishwashing liquid to it as this breaks the surface tension of the water and lets it get into those previously mentioned nooks.
Or, wash it out with hot water and detergent - again, to break the surface tension. After that, either way, you should be right. You may still have a smell, but that doesn't mean there's fuel present.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
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