Thread: My first series 2a project

Originally Posted by akelly

Been a while since I worked as a mechanic (and it was in QLD), but I've never heard of a roadworthy that didn't require pulling all wheels off, then brake drums off to check linings, make sure the drums have the correct thickness, look for leaks and then a brake test with the meter (can't recall the name of it). Tassie must have some very liberal road rules!

They are called a Tapley Meter. I too am an ex Motor Mechanic . also held a an RWC licence way back then also in Qld. Yes we had to do a road test & record the reading off the Tapley Meter when doing a RWC. The new brake testers give a % of braking front & rear also test hand brake %. If the drums have been machined too far O/S they can stretch under hard braking.

Not sure on what the rules are for each state. We dont have yearly roadworthy checks here, once a vehicle is registered its done, no more checks. I did see the mechanics take test drives of more modern vehicles, so perhaps older vehicles dont require it (same as motorbikes are not taken for a test ride)

In Qld you require a RWC to register a vehicle or when selling ( change of registered owner)

Just coming back to brakes, I noticed my master cyl is the CB (fat end) type. I read that they are not as good as the CV type, is this correct? Are these interchangeable? Just looking at options should I nee to update the master cyl also...

The two types are interchangeable, except you have to change (or bend) the pipes as well. My preference is the CV type, because it is simpler to work on, but I have had no reason to think the CB type gives more trouble.

Originally Posted by Cap

Just coming back to brakes, I noticed my master cyl is the CB (fat end) type. I read that they are not as good as the CV type, is this correct? Are these interchangeable? Just looking at options should I nee to update the master cyl also...

I prefer the CB, my only comment would be to make sure you anneal the copper washer for the endcap. They seem to be delivered 'dead hard' in the kits and annealing gives a much better chance of it actually sealing.
I've no idea why someone would suggest that they are 'not as good' as the CV type.

Also handy to have a large Whitworth spanner for the nut, if stripping an old one down loosen the nut before removing from the vehicle. Nice to have it firmly held in the pedal box as you struggle with the nut.

I'm trying to think if I've ever had a vehicle with a CV type, are they aluminium ? If so another reason to use the CB which is cast iron.


Colin

Good, then I'm not touching the master as yet... and I got my new drums today so fitting tomorrow. Then if nothing changes, then ill purchase new reputable brand shoes.

Originally Posted by gromit

..........
I'm trying to think if I've ever had a vehicle with a CV type, are they aluminium ? If so another reason to use the CB which is cast iron.


Colin

Never seen an aluminium one, but they may exist. All the ones I have ever dealt with are cast iron (unlike clutch M/Cs)