Thread: Series 2a LWB dead, ideas please

Originally Posted by landychris

I only have two fuses both are ok. With no power going to the ignition I still should have power to the lights.
landychris

Not if the main feed is open. This can be either the +ve cable, or the -ve earth. Both cause open circuit. Now, this may sound strange, but if the earth, for example, had dropped off, the car would likely still run until you turned it off, but not respond when you come back.

IIRC the main power feed for the entire vehicle is attached to the starter where the main +Ve connects to it - the wire could have come out of the lug there, or more likely there is corrosion between the terminals there. Disconnect the battery and pull the lugs off the starter and clean them with some sandpaper and reassemble.

It will be something like a dry - high resistance - joint somewhere causing this.

Where are you located?

Remove one (either) fuse and place between the two proper positions, see if you have power then.

Thanks all, will go through your ideas tomorrow.
landychris

I found another earth lead (braded) which went from a starter bolt to the chassis and cleaned it up, all ok there. I then connected a jumper lead from the battery to the chassis and checked lights etc.…nothing.
Have checked a few more things again, but as have broken a bone in my ankle and did some tendon damage a few weeks back, I am a bit restricted climbing in and under.
Any more ideas would be appreciated, I can’t drive for a few more weeks so I am restricted to sitting in the landy and going brumm, brumm, only I wish it was the 2a making the sounds and not me.
landychris

Beans might help
Put a positive jumper cable to the starter, positive wire to your positive of the coil, negative to the shiny bit on your block, now put power to the solenoid (they have a solinoind on the starter?), That should give you a better noise than beans. Could be a failed ign switch
cheers
blaze

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Remove one (either) fuse and place between the two proper positions, see if you have power then.

Originally Posted by bblaze

Beans might help
Put a positive jumper cable to the starter, positive wire to your positive of the coil, negative to the shiny bit on your block, now put power to the solenoid (they have a solinoind on the starter?), That should give you a better noise than beans. Could be a failed ign switch
cheers
blaze

The ignition would have no effect on the lights would it?
My test will eliminate or confirm switch failure.

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Remove one (either) fuse and place between the two proper positions, see if you have power then.

I put a test probe in a number of positions around the fuse box but no power.
No, the lights come on without the ignition, two position toggle switch. Instrument switch is the same. Remember the good old days when you had to have your parkers on at night if parked in the street. Pre Landies I had Morris Oxfords MO and MCV's. These had a pull switch on the rear that required the driver to step out, move to the back of the car, turn on the rear lights and jump back in. Front lights and parkers had their own internal switch, again not connected to ignition. Many was the time that I turned off the lights and forgot the rear. Only to remember later in the evening.
landychris