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Thread: My first Series 2a x3 (NZ)

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    Taupo NZ
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    Did you sell the other ones....seem to recall seeing them on trademe??

  2. #42
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    Aug 2017
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    Wellington, NZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordie View Post
    Did you sell the other ones....seem to recall seeing them on trademe??
    I sold one! Kept the other one for parts and scrapped the chassis. Might make a trailer with the other tub.

    Cheers,
    Simon

  3. #43
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    Aug 2017
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    Wellington, NZ
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    Hey guys and gals, quick up date with Joe.

    I placed the my first of what will be many orders from paddocks. I ordered a new clutch master, braided line and slave cylinder. I chose to go for a stand alone reservoir master.

    I unbolted the clutch pedal box, removed the old master cylinder and gave the box a good degrease and water blast. Then, in went the cylinder. I must admit it was hard to install such a shiny, new part to a part in need of a good tidy up and paint but at least it was clean.


    I was alone, so I rigged up a “1 man” bleeding system from a large syringe and a length of tubing. I attached the tubing to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and secured it with a cable tie. Then I filled the syringe with fresh fluid and flicked the tube until all the air came to the top. Then I inserted the plunger, cracked the bleed nipple and applied pressure until I saw fluid rise into the master cylinder reservoir. Once I saw fluid, I topped it up and away I went. A good, hard pedal.


    I also cleaned up the thermostat housing and installed a new gasket and thermostat.

    Now I can move him around the section in the mean time without having to bleed the reservoir each time.
    I am off to Africa in May for 7 weeks hence the delay in starting the restoration.

    Thanks for reading,

    Simon

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    Wellington, NZ
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    Long time, no update!

    So I am back from Africa and back into the Landy. This weekend I started dismantling.

    I took all exterior lighting out, removed the dash, labelling as I went. Then the grill and radiator, seat box and floor panels. The chassis is looking good so far...



    I also took the main gauges apart and have ordered new chrome bezels, glass and seals. I also orders new warning lights and new, matching oil pressure and water temp gauges (2”)



    I am having trouble finding good 16x5.5” standard wheels with the 33mm offset. I have 3 that are in ok condition, but can’t for the life of me find 2 more. I am thinking of going to an aftermarket wheel? Seems the slimmest I can find is a 16x7” 0p like the Roh trak? Can anyone shed any light on aftermarket options that are under 8” wide? So far I have been collecting what I can find which I can sell on later - 6x 16x5”, 3x of each type of 16x5.5” (can’t remember the codes off hand)

    Cheers for reading,

    Simon

  5. #45
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    Aug 2017
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    Wellington, NZ
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    Hey guys,

    On the weekend I disassembled Joe to a state where I can see what’s what.

    The chassis is looking fairly sound other than the known rotten rear cross member. Everything came out without one snapped bolt or rounded nut.

    The firewall has a bit of rust. Mainly in the top corners around the vents and a wee bit in the bottom of the pillars and foot wells. I have ordered replacement foot wells and full vent replacement panels from paddocks to repair the bulkhead before I pull it off the chassis.


    So that was my Saturday.. good fun! Starting to feel motivated!

    Cheers,
    Simon

  6. #46
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    Aug 2017
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    Wellington, NZ
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    My first Series 2a x3 (NZ)

    Hey guys,

    Yesterday the new chrome bezels and glass arrived from eBay for the gauges, so I wasted no time getting them fitted. Man, they look good! I also ordered a new electric temp and oil pressure gauge which match as closely as I could to the dash gauges.. Only with orange needles...

    I also have started to prep the dash panel. It has now been primed and has 3 coats of black on it. I’m going to add a couple coats of clear too, so that will be the next post.



    Cheers,
    Simon

  7. #47
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    Aug 2017
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    Wellington, NZ
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    Hey guys,

    I have been researching the best treatment for the chassis. I have come to the conclusion that the best value for money and longevity, coating it in a hot dip galv is the way to go. What are people’s thoughts on this? What has worked for you?

    Cheers
    Simon

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Redesdale
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOMIS1234 View Post
    Hey guys,

    I have been researching the best treatment for the chassis. I have come to the conclusion that the best value for money and longevity, coating it in a hot dip galv is the way to go. What are people’s thoughts on this? What has worked for you?

    Cheers
    Simon
    Hot dip gal is most definitely the best way as the inside gets coated. I don't know what prep is involed I thinks it's an acid dip 1st. A lot of places that build or restore series chassis will have them hot dipped.
    I used KBS chassis kit and I'm very happy with it but it fades in UV light only problem. You can get a "blacktop" coat If you want it used in the light. Both are self leveling so it's smooth like glass from the brush.
    I'm going to spray the inside with high pressure on the paint gun to hopfully get a good coat on the inside.
    If I go down a full resto route I'd defiantly go hot dipped then black chassis paint over the top.

    Cheers Jim

    Edit this is after 1 coat and no prep I wanted to leave all the weld spit. Rear cross needs repairs.

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    Wellington, NZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRJim View Post
    Hot dip gal is most definitely the best way as the inside gets coated. I don't know what prep is involed I thinks it's an acid dip 1st. A lot of places that build or restore series chassis will have them hot dipped.
    I used KBS chassis kit and I'm very happy with it but it fades in UV light only problem. You can get a "blacktop" coat If you want it used in the light. Both are self leveling so it's smooth like glass from the brush.
    I'm going to spray the inside with high pressure on the paint gun to hopfully get a good coat on the inside.
    If I go down a full resto route I'd defiantly go hot dipped then black chassis paint over the top.

    Cheers Jim

    Edit this is after 1 coat and no prep I wanted to leave all the weld spit. Rear cross needs repairs.
    Hey Jim, thanks for the reply

    Yeah I think I will go with hot dip as I can get it dipped for $2.25+gst per kg. Not sure what the chassis weighs but guessing around 100-150kg.... the galv guy just said to get it sand blasted to prep it so the whole process will be relatively cheap too!

    I’m not too bothered about painting it afterwards though, the galv guy said in order to paint over the galv, they would have to skip the quenching process and use an etching acid to provide a surface for the paint to stick to. He said it is possible, but the galv coating won’t be as affective.

    Cheers,
    Simon

    P.s your Landy looks awesome!

  10. #50
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    Aug 2017
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
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    Hey guys,

    Today I ordered some more parts! Including a steering relay oil seal, steering box overhaul kit, upper steering column bearing, replacement gearbox crossmember and left and right bulkhead replacement pieces. I thought I may as well replace as much as I can!

    Cheers,
    Simon

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