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Thread: My first Series 2a x3 (NZ)

  1. #71
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Narre Warren Sth - Albury
    Posts
    7,266
    Have you got the extensions with the hangers on, or off?

    I'm guessing here, but I think they probably expect you to make the cuts allowing for rust or damage, which means you won't make "square" cuts necessarily.
    According to which datum points you will use, as in possibly both top, sides, bottom, or all of chassis rail, you should be able to align the cuts at any angle/s needed on either or any surface to help get the end plate section square.

    Hope you understand what I'm saying here Simon, and it helps.
    Marcus & Leeanne
    2016.5 Loire Blue HSE D4
    1971 S2a Wide Light
    2017 New Age 21' Blue Diamond Caravan
    2011 Crew Cab, Gone.


    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...permagrin.html
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii...ide-light.html

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
    Posts
    3
    Hi
    Just spotted your project, looks great. We are in Porirua are you near by? My son is rejuvenating a IIa SWB military rover (FFR).

    I have a few PDF manuals if that's of help, mainly military however.

    What have you done with the military one? Does it have any good bits on it? We may need some so could maybe come to an arrangement if you don't need to keep them.

    Cheers Quentin


    Quote Originally Posted by NOMIS1234 View Post
    Hey guys,
    My first post and first Land Rover project.
    I first saw this Land Rover listed on a Facebook marketplace post. They were in martinborough nz, close ish to me (1hr drive each way). I convinced the mrs to let me park them in the driveway and went over to have a look. At first the listing was for a running 1967 2a and a parts rolling body. (The blue hard top and The green safari roof) once I got there the guy showed me a third 2a which was running the original 2.25 petrol engine and a ute cab top. I couldn't just leave it there, rotting under a tree so I made and offer on all three. Ended up picking them up for $1600, which I thought was a bargain.

    I have a friend with a car trailer he uses for his rally car so we made three trips to get them home. I paid him in beer and bacon for each trip. He was stoked, and I saved several hundred dollars. Happy days

    This one is running a LD28 Nissan diesel and runs well. The grille has been moved forward to accomodate a large electric fan using a hideous piece of checker plate. Yuck. I plan to put his back to original spot and sacrifice the checker plate to the wheelie bin gods.

    The green 2a with the safari roof has no engine and is only good for parts. It is a military model, but the chassis is completely nackered.

    The black 2a has the 2.25 petrol engine which doesn't run at the moment but does turn over. Hopefully get it going and sell it off to fund my project.

    My first port of call is to source some good workshop manuals and parts catalogues. Can anyone make any recommendations on what to buy??



    More pics to come

    Cheers
    Simon

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by Chops View Post
    Have you got the extensions with the hangers on, or off?

    I'm guessing here, but I think they probably expect you to make the cuts allowing for rust or damage, which means you won't make "square" cuts necessarily.
    According to which datum points you will use, as in possibly both top, sides, bottom, or all of chassis rail, you should be able to align the cuts at any angle/s needed on either or any surface to help get the end plate section square.

    Hope you understand what I'm saying here Simon, and it helps.
    Hey chops,

    No they donít have hangers. What I mean is, the chassis rails are supposed to meet the rear cross member on a slight angle. The britpart part has the extensions welded on straight. Iíll show more pics once I get the jigs home.

    Cheers
    Simon

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
    Posts
    55

    My first Series 2a x3 (NZ)

    Quote Originally Posted by sm3rt View Post
    Hi
    Just spotted your project, looks great. We are in Porirua are you near by? My son is rejuvenating a IIa SWB military rover (FFR).

    I have a few PDF manuals if that's of help, mainly military however.

    What have you done with the military one? Does it have any good bits on it? We may need some so could maybe come to an arrangement if you don't need to keep them.

    Cheers Quentin
    Hey Quentin,

    Cheers no I only have the one now. Im saving he parts just in case I need them during the rebuild then once Iím done Iíll put them up for sale. Iím in Lower Hutt. Feel free to private message me your number if you wanna come and have a look and a chat.

    Cheers
    Simon

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
    Posts
    55
    Hey guys, while Iím waiting on the jigs I thought Iíd get stuck in to the bulkhead.




    There is a fair bit of rust around, but I think a good rust kill treatment and paint should sort the inside out. I ordered Eastwood internal frame coating which has a special nozzle to get into hard to reach places. Not cheap, but itís supposed to work well.

    Nearly time to migrate Joe into the garage!

    Cheers,
    Simon

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,371
    Simon, if u turn the bulkhead upside down u can get into most of the "nooks and crannies" of it with a spray nozzle. I used the spray gun that is used to apply fisholene. It got into everything. But be aware that u need to paint the main coat of paint on first as the paint may NOT stick to the stuff u spray inside all the channels and seams. I didnt need to drill any holes or anything when i did my s2a bulkhead. Leave it upside down for a few days to dry and seep into the seams then turn it upright and spray in every crevice u find. I found with fisholene that it was seeping out of seams for days after application. It even travelled upwards into areas that i wouldnt have thought possible. Its good stuff.

    Good luck with ur resto.

    Cheers Rod
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Simon, if u turn the bulkhead upside down u can get into most of the "nooks and crannies" of it with a spray nozzle. I used the spray gun that is used to apply fisholene. It got into everything. But be aware that u need to paint the main coat of paint on first as the paint may NOT stick to the stuff u spray inside all the channels and seams. I didnt need to drill any holes or anything when i did my s2a bulkhead. Leave it upside down for a few days to dry and seep into the seams then turn it upright and spray in every crevice u find. I found with fisholene that it was seeping out of seams for days after application. It even travelled upwards into areas that i wouldnt have thought possible. Its good stuff.

    Good luck with ur resto.

    Cheers Rod
    Thanks Rod. Thanks for the tip! Iíll weld it all up on the chassis one side at a time, then Iíll whip it off and turn upside down like you suggest. Good idea, cheers.

    I was thinking of fisholene, but I ended up going with this stuff. These are the key features.

    Tough phenolic resin penetrates, converts and encapsulates the rust on the internal surface
    Zinc phosphate seals it to prevent future corrosion
    Fully cures in 24hours

    Again thanks for the reply

    Cheers,
    Simon

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
    Posts
    55
    Hey guys,

    I have coated the inside of the rear section of the chassis and the coverage looks good. I used two cans, and will need to use two more to complete the job. It has a green finish to it, so nice and easy to see the coverage while the crossmember isnít attached.


    All going well weather wise, the crossmember should be reunited to the chassis tomorrow.

    Cheers,
    Simon

  9. #79
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Wellington, NZ
    Posts
    55
    Hey guys,

    Weather was good tonight, so the new crossmember was mated with the chassis. The extensions on the britpart crossmember were welded on straight with no angle to them at all, so we had to seperate the three sides and make a jig to hold the crossmember in square and to measurement.
    Jigs

    Jigs installed and all lined up


    Ready to weld on

    Test fit


    Here you can see how we have had to modify the extensions as they were welded straight on with no angle. Note the angle of the side pieces which were trimmed off on the bottom edge to suit.


    All welded up and temporarily painted to resist the weather.




    Next job is the bulkhead !!

    Cheers,
    Simon

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,371
    No spring hangers yet??
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

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