Thread: Series II engine strip down

Dave , that looks like some one has been using it for a boat anchor . I had one given to me once , after pulling the head off & filled up the bores with Diesel foe 4 weeks & couldn't shift the pistons I stuck it in a 50ton press & pistons still would not move. You can guess were that motor ended up. I think it is now a Toyota L/C.

Originally Posted by 1950landy

Dave , that looks like some one has been using it for a boat anchor . I had one given to me once , after pulling the head off & filled up the bores with Diesel foe 4 weeks & couldn't shift the pistons I stuck it in a 50ton press & pistons still would not move. You can guess were that motor ended up. I think it is now a Toyota L/C.

yeah thats what i thought when i first lifted the head...

but the top of number 3 cleaned up not too bad in a very short time so i am living in hope...

i use a 70 /30 mix of autotrans fluid and acetone for really hard to move stuff if diesel don't work, never needed a press touch wood

Have seen somewhere on aulro a way of removing stuck aluminium pistons from cast iron bores. Pity 1950landy apparently did not know about and try it . ie Molasses. From my experience of using solution of it to turn rust on steel and cast iron into black gunk that can be scrubbed off have noted that it also " eats" galvanising (zinc) and aluminium. So obviously dissolves aluminium pistons. Will take time and probably some stirring up /strengthening /replacing of sickly smelly molasses solution but apparently you can finish up having bores with just the cast iron piston rings left in them if adequate solution and left long enough. Probably formerly seized in pistons can be knocked out well before completely dissolving though. Get the rust off the block - including out of water jackets at same time.

For a start, you need a suitable container that will hold engine block or whatever you want to clean. Then appropriate molasses supply. Here in Northern Vic readily available in 25 kg buckets from stockfeed suppliers. Think current price under $40. Should be cheaper nearer sugar mills in Qld. Diluting it, I find best to mix properly with about equal quantity hot water before diluting further. Re final dilution. are wide appropriate ranges. Depends on how much rust and other dissolvable material. eg 1 in 6 to 1 in 30 molasses to water. Unless fairly cold, after a couple of days solution with rusty steel in it will start bubbling - showing it is working. Often creating froth which dries on top. If bubbling stops while rust still present, try adding more molasses. Every few days, to hasten process, remove items from solution, rinse with water then scrub away black gunk that comes off easily. Then put it back in solution when just clean surface and brown rust left. Some items may have hard caked dirt, grease or paint that become more apparent as rust is dissolved that also need removing by other appropriate means. These can act as barriers to molasses attacking rust underneath.

Is good idea to wear rubber gloves when cleaning stuff that has been in molasses solution. It tends to stain and dry out skin on hands and leave stink on them that takes more than one wash to get rid of. Note this sickly smell is not so apparent after you have been around it for a while but remember that others certainly notice and usually don't like it. The older solution gets, the more smelly it becomes. so needs periodic replacement. Then need to consider where you tip it. eg Not on ground near house back door!

Reminders re containers: Of course an aluminium one would be useless unless an impervious liner used. A galvanised steel one will quickly lose its galvanising. Re black steel, surface rust is cleaned off but have had it happen when using rusty 200 litre drum that molasses ate through rust pit and created a hole. To clean large clumsy objects could even use the likes of an old boat lined with heavy plastic sheet. Bloke who originally drew my attention to molasses use. a restorer of old cars reckons he knew a restorer of old engines who sometimes lowered them complete into a circular plunge sheep dip using jib on tractor linkage. Maybe bought 200 litre drums of molasses for this.

Most likely this post will prompt further comments from those who have used molasses as a rust and possibly aluminium remover and possibly questions from others who would like to know more.

I have a 200 lit plastic drum with a molasses mixture in it , the mixture is about 6 years old & needs renewing . Got a price to pump it out the other week . It is cpeaper to get rid of oil. I know it is supose to be good for the garden but my wife would not be happy about the smell.

impressive how you cleaned up that bore Inc. How did you do that, and how did you control the gunk from falling into the gaps and gumming up the rings more (I assume youll be pulling them out anyway?)

Originally Posted by 1950landy

I have a 200 lit plastic drum with a molasses mixture in it , the mixture is about 6 years old & needs renewing . Got a price to pump it out the other week . It is cpeaper to get rid of oil. I know it is supose to be good for the garden but my wife would not be happy about the smell.

Reckon in a suburban situation where with nowhere to tip used molasses solution on ground where it would not be objectionable for a few days at least, should be no problem pouring it down toilet. Maybe in small amounts spread over time. Is basically water soluble organic material with iron in it. Unlike oil. Used oil from vehicles is likely to cause major problems in both septic and sewerage disposal systems.

Our local waste facility takes up to 20 Lt drums of old oil and such for nix. The 20 Lt limit is purely for handling limitations.

Originally Posted by Cap

impressive how you cleaned up that bore Inc. How did you do that, and how did you control the gunk from falling into the gaps and gumming up the rings more (I assume youll be pulling them out anyway?)

just my mixture of trans fluid and acetone, a few rags, some disposable wipes and a couple of scrapers i keep in my toolbox. then some 80 grit wet and dry

i will clean it up some more, soak then blow out with compressed air before i turn it upside down and let some juice soak through from the bottom.

if all else fails it will be molasses to the rescue...