Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Salisbury in SWB...what about the nose angle?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Samford, Qld
    Posts
    52
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Salisbury in SWB...what about the nose angle?

    Hi all,

    I am in the process of fitting a Salisbury to my SWB. I have read as much as I can but have been unable to find a proper write up. If anybody has a link, please post here.

    Also, I am getting conflicting messages about raising the nose angle of the diff. Some say raise it by 3-5 degrees, others say don't. Any thoughts?

    Spring mounts are removed, waiting to weld the "feet" back on. SWB has parabolics. Engine and gearbox are standard 2.25 petrol. At the moment it is a bare chassis.

    Thanks,

    Thomas

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Wheelers Hill, Melbourne
    Posts
    4,086
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Attached is a link to some discussion on this. If the Parabolics are SWB I wonder if the extra weight is a concern?
    I'm assuming the LWB Parabolics are meant to support a Salisbury.

    Salisbury diffs and series III 88"

    David

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Samford, Qld
    Posts
    52
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi David,

    thanks for the response and the link. I had seen it and actually asked Toad about his opinion as he mentioned the 3-5 degrees tilt, just haven't heard back yet.

    I believe that the weight of the axle is not a problem as it's unsprung weight. The wheels carry the axles and the axles carry the rest of the vehicle, cushioned by the springs and shocks.

    My question is, does the axle needs to be tilted up to help with the prop shaft angle? I mean I could do it afterwards with shims but attaching the "feet" in an angle could give me a head start. My problem is that because I am a bit pressed for space, I have to assemble things as they become available, so at the moment I am trying to turn the chassis into a roller, therefore I can't just give it a try and see what the best angle is.

    Cheers,

    Thomas

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    452
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Generally the output flange of the transfer case and the output flange of the diff should be parallel, but not in line. The angle between the flange and the drive shaft should be somewhere around 2-3deg, can be more depending on design, but it should be the same at either end of the driveshaft.
    If the Salisbury nose is longer than the Rover diff you going to have to lift the nose so the driveshaft/flange angle mimics that of the transfer/driveshaft, and I think you going to have to do that once you've assembled it and got weight on the springs.

    Yep its a PITA, but not as much as having constant driveline vibrations and chirping from the UJs

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Samford, Qld
    Posts
    52
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    ...and I think you going to have to do that once you've assembled it and got weight on the springs.

    Yep its a PITA, but not as much as having constant driveline vibrations and chirping from the UJs
    I think you are right. Might just assemble it with the "feet" in position but not welded up. I can then align it later and tack it on. With all new bolts etc should be a breeze to disassemble and weld up. I guess I can't preempt everything.

    Thanks again everybody.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    452
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you can support the springs under the U bolt plates and leave the U bolts slack you should be able play around with the diff angle fairly easily, then work out your feet from there

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,900
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have a 2A shorty with a Salisbury in it.
    It was set up and fitted by a previous owner.
    Seems to work well, does/hasn't given any grief.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Godwin Beach 4511
    Posts
    20,454
    Total Downloaded
    0
    i've seen 2 over the years, both had shims between spring and diff

    from memory from about 1mm at the rear to about 3mm at the front..

    but i never measured them and to this day have no idea why you would want to do such conversion in the first place if just using a standard power plant
    1998 Discovery 300TDi Manual SE7
    1996 Discovery 300TDi Auto
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7TDCi

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
    "If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
    'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
    “What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
    "The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Samford, Qld
    Posts
    52
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi guys,

    thanks for the info. The reason why I am doing this is that my original diff needed an overhaul and I found a Salisbury axle for cheap. I have now remove the feet and therefore destroyed my original axle housing so I kinda painted myself into a corner.

    And I guess once I have done the conversion, I know how to do it...but you are right, it is overkill for this engine...

    Cheers,

    Thomas

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Bittern Vic
    Posts
    516
    Total Downloaded
    0
    When I was considering putting a Salisbury in my last SWB I was told the best thing to do was fit the axle put some angle in the setting and tighten the bolts and test drive to see if it vibrates before welding the mounts. If it vibrates adjust the angle until there are no vibrations. I didn't end up changing the axle but the test drive method sounds best.
    Ps you do realise you will need a shorter tailshaft and if you are doing serious off roading you may need high angle uni joints to stop destroying unis and breaking tailshafts.

    Ian

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!