Glad I'm not up for a new shaft I guess the only time it'll be under load is when 4WD is selected and that is unlikely to be at highway speedsQuote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Cheers Paul
Printable View
Glad I'm not up for a new shaft I guess the only time it'll be under load is when 4WD is selected and that is unlikely to be at highway speedsQuote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Cheers Paul
Thinking I will replace unis they are cheap in the scheme of things and the rollers just don't look right to meQuote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
Cheers Paul
These U-joints should be without seals to ensure lubrication. Some allow the seals to be removed for this use.
Decided to start to clean the engine in situ while I wait for Santa and his Reindeer to deliver my engine crane.......I've been good all year [bighmmm]
Attachment 146555 Attachment 146556
Attachment 146557 what is this plug with Thailand cast into it..... also the two silver plugs with centre punch marks in them to the left of the Thai plug
Welsh plugs are brass[thumbsupbig]
Cheers Paul
That galv plug is supposed to be an alloy sacraficial plug. The other alloy plugs are screw in core plugs. There may even be 3 or more in the top of the cyl head. They are NOT sacraficial plugs. They are supposed to be made of a different composition to the alloy sacraficial plug which as suggested is supposed to corrode before the other alloy plugs. The screw in plug at the rear should be alloy as well but most replace with brass screw in plugs if fitted. Some rear plugs were dish type knock ins on later engines. Have fun with it.
Cheers Rod
Rod so.....what I think your saying is Thai plug is wrong...other plugs, and your probably right there may be more than two.......are screwed in by a centre punch ??? I'm assuming this was done in the factory and needs no attention.
Someone posted in another thread they were doing a rebuild on their vehicle because first rebuild it wasn't quiet right....Jade is a good functional rebuild but these next ones I want to go further, and when their done I'm afraid poor old Jade will be in for another refurb
cheers Paul
They tend to screw them in with a flat screwdriver then pein them over with a hammer or suchlike. They do corrode from the inside out so u cant tell if they r good or not.
Cheers Rod
Finally got my 4wd engine crane going.....a few trolleys around the place missing wheels though[bighmmm]
Attachment 146894 Attachment 146895 I love my angle grinder and welder[thumbsupbig]
I drained oil from gearbox, oil was like treacle, before removal and this was in the drain plug
Attachment 146896 Attachment 146897 Attachment 146900
Engine was good still a hint of honing in bores and mains like new....so recently rebuilt[thumbsupbig]
Attachment 146898 Attachment 146899 Are these nuts on the conrod ends reusable....thought I read somewhere here they were one use only, nothing in manual.
Cheers Paul
Quote:
what is this plug with Thailand cast into it.....
That is rear of engine block LH side correct?
From memory & trying to recall it's description from my old S2A Parts book, now gifted to another bloke doing one up, it was described as a "Redundant Water Heater Plug" used for a fitted electrical water heater when used, I suppose for very cold weather pre-heating.
On the same page I think there was a cylindrical sketch of the heater itself.
Back then I recall being puzzled by it as well.
Ed. Possibly the same as a 44 gallon drum small bung to look at & "diecast ****metal" I had to smash mine out & replace it.
ED #2 Block heater as told by my Uncle Jethro. [biggrin]
How to R&R or install a block heater - YouTube
The domed Welch/Welsh (?) plugs were inserted into a clean hole with a sealant around the circumference & a large diam. brass drift was used to expand them outwards when it was hammered in.
Still available for Discs etc but not Series.Engine Block Heater For Land Rovers
