As Dinty has pointed out The engine mount bracket is welded onto the chassis about 4" too low, Thats very wrong either for a series 1 or 2 . Not a camera trick , looks obvious to me.
I'll go take a photo from same angle so you can compare.
Printable View
As Dinty has pointed out The engine mount bracket is welded onto the chassis about 4" too low, Thats very wrong either for a series 1 or 2 . Not a camera trick , looks obvious to me.
I'll go take a photo from same angle so you can compare.
heres one I had on file, you can see its right at the top and the underside is shaped to clear the UJ / prop .
I'll go get the underside photo now
http://goingbush.com/images/mountr.jpg
What is a pansie??? I typed ‘landie’...... gotta hate auto-spellcheck!!
underside photos, Sorry I cant get a clear shot because a thumping big battery box is in the way, but the image from rear looking forward shows the clearance needed in relation to the diff & the cutaway 'arch' in the underside of the mount. the chassis is all original 88" .
http://goingbush.com/images/mountr2.jpg
http://goingbush.com/images/mountr3.jpg
Well actually I’m not entirely sure that’s correct. It seems to me that it’s the lower edge that’s critical here, and in the pic below it looks like the chassis bracket has been modified at the top. It is no longer the original triangle shape. Attachment 141691Attachment 141692
The way I see it its still too low , its horizontal from the top of the chassis, yours its more like 2" too low from the new photo.
No doubt whatsoever thats your problem
(not much weld holding it on by the looks in one photo)
I’m thinking the best way to check is a measurement from floor to bracket nose and from floor to top of chassis immediately above bracket. The difference would be the elevation from top of chassis to front bolt hole. I could then do same and compare exactly how much lower my bracket is to normal.
Funny thing is lhs bracket looks original and the engine is level, you’d think it would lean a little.
This thread covers packing the engine mounts and also adding 5mm to the bump stops on the front axle.
Land Rover SIII 200 tdi conversion
The main problem listed (and in other 200TDi conversion threads) is the diff hitting the crankshaft pulley before the axle hits the bump stops.
Were your mounts for a Holden motor previously ? I have pictures of a Series III chassis and the mounts look nothing like yours. I'll have to lay under my Dormobile and have a look at the mounts......
Colin
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustlust
perhaps both sides were lowered for the Holden conversion .
the easy way to check if the engine alignment is correct is to check with a crank handle , or poke a dowell through the hole in your bumper, it should go straight into the middle of your crankshaft pulley wheel.
The welds on LR chassis never look real good but that weld were the mount bracket attaches to the main rail doesn't look real good at all so may be the bracket has been shifted . May be it is just how the photo has been taken .
