2.6 engine help/oversize Pistons

I ended up being able to get the shafts out by using a ezy-out attached to a sliding hammer. One came out very easily and the other required a few light taps. Attachment 149004Attachment 149005

I then removed the rockers, bagged and labeled them individually. Used a magnet to remove the collets.
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Pulled out the valves and by the looks last time it was apart o-rings did not get put back in the valve stems. No wonder it was blowing some smoke. I thought the valves and seats looked in really good nick.

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All is going well so far, Cheers. Hamish

Quote:

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Originally Posted by morty

I thought the valves and seats looked in really good nick.


All is going well so far, Cheers. Hamish

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I concur on both counts

The special tool for extracting the rocker shafts is a easy out welded to a "T" handle . I have a drawing of one here some were . I will see if I can find it & post it up for you along with a drg for the special tol to keep the timing chain tentioner .

Just wondering if anyone knew what the standard thickness of the thrust washer on the 2.6 engine is?
My pair of washers give me the correct end float but one of them has been brass soldered to beef it up a little and is wearing unevenly. I used verniers and measure the un-tampered one and it measures 0.0920 thou. Would is be the standard? Maintenance manual and parts catalogue gives the oversize increments but not the standard width.

Cheers, Hamish

My parts for the engine rebuild have rocked up today. Had to get old new stock from the UK as parts for these engines were bloody hard to get. New .030 thou rings, new inlet and outlet valves, new inlet and outlet valves, .010 thou oversize big end bearings, timing chain wheels and engine overhaul gasket set.

Unreal service from P.A Blanchard from the UK. Very helpful and have a huge range of genuine 2.6 parts.

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Hamish

Yes, it took me a few years to get everything for mine at prices I was able to afford. Got a box of expensive bits but haven’t rebuilt the engine yet... Still on my to do list.

Keep the info and pics coming, following with interest. 👍

G'day. Picked my block and head up from the engine shop on the weekend with the honing and the valves cut to the correct angles. The owner of the shop said they have only seen 1 of these engines in 40 years. I suppose you could take that a few different ways haha.

I am trying to get my head around how I will get the pistons back into the bores when I get around reassembling the engine. I have heard you need a special piston ring clamp to ensure the rings don't get caught in the cavity where the exhaust valves are. Has anyone done this before you know of a tool you can make?
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Also bought some oversize thrust washers and honed them down with some wet and dry to get the correct end float on the crankshaft. Was sitting at 2 thou after the first adjustment (pictured below) and ended up getting it to 5 thou.
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Cheers any help,

Hamish

I’ve thought about the piston fitting myself although I’m far from that stage. Would something like a modified standard piston ring compressor work with bits cut out to follow the shape of the block?

I reassembled without a ring compressor, just used my fingers.

FFR Refurb

The top (angled) part of the bore is a slightly bigger diameter so no need to cut down a piston ring compressor, it should tuck into the top section.


Colin

I assembled the piston assemblies from underneath on my 2.0l siamese bore (sloped head) block.

Does the big end of the rod fit down the bore? It doesn't on a 2.0l so installing all from underneath is much easier.