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Thread: My little Series 2

  1. #91
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    123
    Makes sense, I'll take a look.
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  2. #92
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    123
    Well I've still got the knock!!

    Replaced so far:

    Both propshafts
    Front diff
    Rear diff centres (and wheel bearings)
    Adjusted the transmission brake

    Still have the knock!! But I noticed through the clutch grommet hole that the hole gearbox is moving. While i've replaced the engine mounts, the gearbox mounts are now next!!!! If that doesn't fix it, then maybe clutch drag??
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    22,975
    Just because you adjusted the transmission brake does not mean it is not dragging. With one rear wheel off the ground check that the drive train turns without any drag anywhere in the drive train. The transmission brake drum could be out of round, or the mechanism designed to centre the shoes not working, or foreign matter loose in the drum.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    2,190
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Just because you adjusted the transmission brake does not mean it is not dragging. With one rear wheel off the ground check that the drive train turns without any drag anywhere in the drive train. The transmission brake drum could be out of round, or the mechanism designed to centre the shoes not working, or foreign matter loose in the drum.
    There could also be oil in the linings making them sticky

  5. #95
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Bittern Vic
    Posts
    324
    Did you disconnect the handbrake before adjusting the hand brake drum ? there is an adjuster on the passenger side to adjust the shoe to drum clearance, then adjust the handbrake lever to 4 or 5 clicks.
    Last time i had something rubbing it was poor quality new brake drum on the front wheel.


    Ian
    Bittern

  6. #96
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    123
    Thank you all for the advice!!! But I've found the issue!!

    When the clutch is de-pressed the piston to the side of the gearbox the accuates the clutch itself is just hitting the front propshaft. I'm hoping that replacing the gearbox mounts will lift the gearbox and clear the cylinder end.

    The gearbox crossmember has been hit, i'm hoping that it's not bent too much. Can you shim the gearbox mount to lift the gearbox a little if needed? Or should I be planning to replace the crossmember? Are replacement gearbox crossmembers available?

    Cheers
    Chris
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    22,975
    That is a new one to me! There should be plenty of clearance there, suggesting the piston is moving too far - possible issues could include something in the bell crank bent or broken and welded, damage to the linking tube and pins or incorrect spline assembly on the clutch fork shaft, or use of a S3 pressure plate (although I did not think this would work at all!).

    I can't see any issue with a small shim under the gearbox mounts, but watch out you don't cause problems elsewhere such as other bits of the engine/gearbox contacting the body etc (watch fan/radiator clearance).
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #98
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    123
    Gearbox mounts have been replaced, i haven't had a chance to test if the clutch slave is still hitting the front propshaft.

    20190716_072202.jpg

    Fitted the new lights, only one indicator and one tail light works. But the are fitted!!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    22,975
    As I pointed out to someone else, those are 90/110/Defender lights, not Series lights. While several different lights were fitted, the key difference is that all the S2a ones incorporate a reflector. Separate reflectors were fitted to 90/110/Defender, and failing fitting lights with reflectors you will need separate reflectors.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #100
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    123
    JDNSW - yer I'm happy to fit reflectors separately!

    What would be causing dropping idle and stall once the engines warm? Coils new, was going to pull the carby off and check the gaskets and oring? Seems to be running quite rich (black smoke). Will be checking the plugs on the weekend (while doing a compression test - possible head gasket replacement)

    Oh and the mounting bracket for the carby to the manifold is really cold while it's running.

    Any thought?
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

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