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Thread: My little Series 2

  1. #81
    mick88's Avatar
    mick88 is offline Lord Jock Silver Subscriber
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    Jan 1970
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    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by tibbsy View Post
    Yer I'm missing one on the other side too! It comes off with the nut

    Loctite them in.
    Alternatively there are 9/16 BSF press in studs available from Land Rover parts suppliers.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #82
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    About a year ago I replaced a screw in stud with a press fit stud as the threads had been destroyed in the process of removing the wheel.

    Your threads look to be in much better condition than mine did, but now I don't have to worry about that stud coming loose again.

    Cheers,
    Rex

  3. #83
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Warrandyte, VIC
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    Well I have brakes!! Be it I have to pump the pedal a couple of times, but at least the pedal is not hitting the floor!!

    I think I have a that's too tight (resulting in a hole dug in the lawn with a tyre)

    So I have a couple of questions:


    1. What is the best method of bleeding the brake? It will need to be a one man job, as I know there is no chance of getting my pregnant wife to help.
    2. The front diff, there is a pipe that runs from the top wheel cylinder to the bottom wheel cylinder. At the bottom should this pipe feed into the thread that is angled or straight one? Could someone post a pic of the top and bottom from behind the backing plate? I'm having trouble accessing the bleed nipple at the front.
    3. When I push the clutch in there is a knocking through the clutch pedal (forward and backwards). The knocking frequency changes with the speed of the vehicle, at first I thought it was the propshaft (that's new now!). My next thought is the diff centre at the rear. Any thoughts??



    Thanks in advance
    Chris
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast QLD
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    Watching with interest as I have bitten the bullet and signed up for another project. Collecting in 2 weeks (woo hoo) from Ballarat. With the brakes, I used this on both Ralph and Smeg. It worked a treat. If you can, fit a check valve in the line in, it makes it easier by yourself. I used my vacuum pump and an old set of refrig gauges. You just have to make sure you get a good seal on the hoses through the lid. I used a pasta sauce jar for memory. Make sure you start at rear passenger wheel first, then rear driver, front passenger then driver wheel.
    Cheers Ian
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    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  5. #85
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    Loads of threads on brakes... here my issue I had


    With me it ended being I didnt adjust the snails properly, so pumping the pedal lead me to believe I had air trapped. So first thing, adjust the snails so the wheels lock, then try the pedal again. If its spongy then you still have air, or if like me, they ended up perfectly with one pump. Then slightly back off snails just until the wheel move freely.

    Again, loads of threads on the subject
    Carlos
    1995 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1964 Land Rover Series 2a 88 - current project rebuild
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  6. #86
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Warrandyte, VIC
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    Thanks ezyrama and Cap!!

    Cap - sounds like your saying search first post later [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

    When i get back from Townsville I'll do a proper search, although I'll do the test you mentioned.

    Any ideas about the knocking? I was thinking I'll take the diff centre out of the spare diff and see if that is better!!
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  7. #87
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    May 2011
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    Warrandyte, VIC
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    Doe this seem like a lot of movement in the rear diff?

    YouTube
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
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    22,881
    No. About normal. Just check that none of it is due to:-

    1. Worn U-joints

    2. Loose drive flange on the pinion shaft

    3. Worn splines on the hub drive flanges.

    Most of the free play is probably end play on the planet gears in the differential. This amount of free play is not going to be an issue unless the handbrake is dragging. (This means every time you take your foot off, the free play is immediately moved the other way and reversed when you take up the load again - shows up very obviously any shortcomings in your driving!)
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #89
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    117
    JDNSW is the issue I have is a knocking through the clutch pedal when the clutch is in.

    The knocking is not there when moving under the power of the engine, but once i push the clutch there is a knocking (forward and reverse). The frequency slows as the car slows.

    Rear propshaft is new (that's where i thought it was)

    I thought it could be in the diff centre, I've pulled the one out of my old diff and was going to replace it.
    1960 SWB Series 2 UTE
    1963 LWB Series 2a UTE

  10. #90
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    22,881
    While it is difficult to diagnose a sound or feel by text, my feeling is that the knocking you refer to is very likely to be the result of the handbrake dragging slightly.

    Another possibility is that it is nothing to do with the drive train, but is due to the clutch operating system transmitting noise or vibration from the engine and drive train to your foot when there is load on it. This could be from something hitting the chassis or body, usually part of the exhaust system. Or, it could possibly be a loose or broken engine mount. Very unlikely is a problem with the release bearing.

    But my bet is that it is on the first suggestion.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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