Thread: My little Series 2

very simple if the alternator has an inbuilt regulator.
slightly more difficult for an external regulator
you will need to see what brackets you have and you may need to modify or improve the brackets, i have seen some very poor brackets on some conversions.
I bought a Britpart alternator which fitted easily but i had to reuse the original pulley from the generator.
You need to ensure the fan belt is lined up correctly to stop it wearing prematurely.

Ian
Bittern

Easiest solution to brackets is to get the Series 3 bits. (And an alternator intended for a S3)

Is there wiring changes with an alternator too?

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New front diff has been installed, next i need to:

• Tighten the U-bolts
• Re-fit the front propshaft to the diff
• Fit the new flexible brake pipes.

Also fitted a new sump to replace the battered one!!

Once the front diff is done, i'll start on the rear one (maybe this weekend).

If you use a 15ac you will probably be O.K. with the original wiring, but if you use a more modern and higher output alternator, you would want to put a ~6mm^2 wire between the alternator output and the battery or starter push button / solenoid terminal.

Aaron

Yes. Series 2 petrol don't actually have a starter solenoid, but the starter switch would be where to run it. One issue is that up to 1967 2/2a used an ammeter. It is preferable not to run the alternator output through this, even with a relatively low output alternator, and the wire direct to the battery will bypass it. This means the ammeter readings will be misleading, and you may want to simply connect the two teerminals together. To keep an eye on the battery, a voltmeter should probably be fitted, but this is not essential.

Note that the Series 2 left the factory as positive earth, but has probably been converted to negative earth. The only wiring change required to reverse battery polarity is the reverse the ammeter connections. Any alternator you fit will be negative earth (positive earth ones exist, but I have never seen one!).

Back on its wheels:
- Refurbished front diff done
- new brake flex hoses
- refurbished tie rods

Also learnt the hard way the the fuel guage isn't working, would start with fuel in the carby (after I fitted the new carby) but only run for 20 sec. So I thought no fuel getting to the carby. Checked and there was no fuel getting though the fuel pump, so I stupidly removed the fuel pump and replaced is with another that I had tested. Still no fuel... Check the inlet pipe to the fuel pp and nothing.... 10 litres of fuel added to the tank. It started no issue!!!!

We all do silly things from time to time - like the time I was changing the oil and was pumping in the new oil, having added several litres before I notices the pool of oil spreading underneath - and the sump plug sitting on top of the radiator!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

We all do silly things from time to time - like the time I was changing the oil and was pumping in the new oil, having added several litres before I notices the pool of oil spreading underneath - and the sump plug sitting on top of the radiator!

I think we’ve all done that once. I was once refilling the sump on and old Blackstone engine (Old 650KVA backup genset at the Hawthorn Telstra Exchange) - had pumped 200 litres of oil into it from upstairs through some piping, checked the dipstick (which was in the same place I was pumping the oil into so had removed the oil fill line). Went back upstairs to put one last 20 litre drum into it - came back downstairs and yep, had 20 litres of oil on the floor...