Thread: 1964 2a Rebuild (Storm)

Didn't do much today except clean and paint the bump stops for both builds IMG_4739.jpg

Tomorrow I'm going to start honing and putting this lot back together IMG_4738.jpg IMG_4741.jpg

A few questions........... which head gasket is better copper or composite? IMG_4743.jpg

Should I be concerned about using these conrod nuts ? IMG_4765.jpg IMG_4766.jpg

They are nothing like what was originally used or what parts manual says, should I be using some form of lock washer or is 25lb of torque enough to hold them?

I know 67 hardtop (Rod) used them on his motor and I'm know his skills and knowledge are greater than mine.........but.......these little nuts don't seem usual Series Land Rover belt and braces engineering....

IMG_4757.jpg IMG_4764.jpg Parts book and my nuts

Cheers Paul

Why are u showing us ur nuts???

Just remember if ur using a solid hone be gentle as u may remove too much bore material. If ur using a flexible arm hone, similar to wheel cyl hone, be careful as well. If just deglazing with a ball type hone, just try get a good cross hatch pattern, using plenty lube as you do it. I find kero is good for solid hone but only on a new bore. I generally use inox, crc or wd40 as lube as ur not putting as much pressure on the bore. Remember to clean it up after honing. Those little metal filings will get everywhere and destroy bearing shells etc.

Cheers Rod

Thanks Rod for info on honing will use wD 40 was thinking of diesel

Any thoughts on head gaskets.........just to get your mind off my nuts

Cheers Paul

Originally Posted by 67hardtop

Why are u showing us ur nuts???

Just remember if ur using a solid hone be gentle as u may remove too much bore material. If ur using a flexible arm hone, similar to wheel cyl hone, be careful as well. If just deglazing with a ball type hone, just try get a good cross hatch pattern, using plenty lube as you do it. I find kero is good for solid hone but only on a new bore. I generally use inox, crc or wd40 as lube as ur not putting as much pressure on the bore. Remember to clean it up after honing. Those little metal filings will get everywhere and destroy bearing shells etc.

Cheers Rod

Maybe he's a big lad & proud of them?

I just used the copper one on my diesel. Coated in hylomar. Probably better with composit but make sure both surfaces are flat.

Originally Posted by bemm52

Should I be concerned about using these conrod nuts ? IMG_4765.jpg IMG_4766.jpg

They are nothing like what was originally used or what parts manual says, should I be using some form of lock washer or is 25lb of torque enough to hold them?

I know 67 hardtop (Rod) used them on his motor and I'm know his skills and knowledge are greater than mine.........but.......these little nuts don't seem usual Series Land Rover belt and braces engineering....

IMG_4764.jpg Parts book and my nuts

Cheers Paul

Personally I'd be concerned about the nuts. The originals have a locking mechanism and look slightly longer.
I've never seen lock washers on bigend bolts so not sure that's a good idea either.
From the colour/finish of the replacements they look like they might be High Tensile but who knows.

Re-using the originals is an option but the locking mechanism is probably designed to be single use.


Colin

The manual says to use new nuts!

If I had to, I would reuse them - but add thread locker.

I would not be using lock washers , they are compressible & the nuts will come loose . You can centre pop the side of the old nuts & reuse them. That puts a pressure point in the thread. That's what the cuts in the out side of the old nuts do.
With the new nuts when you screw them on the bolts they should bind on the thread before the you get the full nut on the bolt & should not screw down free. From the photo of the new nuts they do not look like a normal nut I would take them to an engine reconditing workshop Or bolt Company & ask them. I think the little indents around the top flat flange deforms the thread making them lock nuts