Thanks, that’s interesting. So does that mean the new cylinder is incorrect being the same size as the clutch cylinder? Or do modrn parts do the job?
The clutch master cylinder is 3/4" but the brake master cylinder for the 109 is 1" (88 is 3/4"), so the clutch and brake master cylinders should be different. Note that there are two types of brake master cylinders fitted, referred to as CB and CV. They are interchangeable, except the pipes going into them need to be slightly different.
And note that a large proportion of bolt heads and nuts in 1958 Landrovers have BSW hexagons, and you really need to have Whitorth spanners to avoid damaging them. The change to Unified sizes started with this model, but was a long way from complete (still incomplete at the end of S3 production!). There would have been zero metric fasteners when it left the factory, but it would be surprising if it doesn't have a few by now. Many small screws such as the ones at the top of the instrument panel and the ones holding the speedo cable to the transfer case are BA.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks, that’s interesting. So does that mean the new cylinder is incorrect being the same size as the clutch cylinder? Or do modrn parts do the job?
It is incorrect. The part you have fitted looks correct for the 88, but the 109 master cylinder has to feed six wheel cylinders not four, so it needs to move more fluid.
Doesn't matter whether it is modern or not, you still need the larger cylinder. With that one you will find it impossible to get the brakes working on a 109 (or a 88 fitted with 109 front brakes!).
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thank you, correct part on order.
Ordering parts has been a learning curve so far.
Not just the random nature of what arrives and when, but the need to dig deeper before ordering. This cylinder was bought from a UK site and denoted as suitable for a LWB 2a. Having not rebuilt a LR before I'd been relying on the parts suppliers to help in selection. Lesson learnt.
Frustrating. But at least I've had practice fitting one.
As someone commented above - I find it easier to remove the whole pedal assembly, and do it on the bench.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Don't be scared to source stuff from a local brake shop. Most parts are generic enough to be available locally. Brake wheel cylinders etc are available off the shelf sometimes. The clutch master cylinder is the same as used on trailers and my local shop had a dozen of them on the shelf.
Chris
2014 D4 TDV6
1954 86"
1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)
Had a few hours spare today to play.
Plan was to refurbish the rear left drum and replace the clutch slave cylinder. The drum was worst yet, but straightforward
Still waiting on parts to finish the master cylinders and front left drum, been over a week and the orders remain ‘in processing’.... what do they do for a week with orders? Are they just ignoring or is there some process involving competitive origami with my order sheet.
Any how, clutch slave cylinder. Heeding earlier advice, I decided not to attempt to remove the cylinder ‘in situ’ as it were, but to start stripping panels to get easier access.
Nice satisfying job, all came out nicely, one floor to replace but the rest is in good condition.
Only rust I can find on bulkhead
Access was great to slave cylinder. Now I’m new to land rovers, but after careful reading of the Haynes manual, I’m pretty sure this isn’t right,.......
The push rod is bent through 90degrees.
More parts to order, I’m assuming these things are some sort of gold alloy or use rare earths given the price of them. Any other suggestions?
Definitely not right!
It is so long since I bought any slave cylinder bits I can't remember their cost. I wonder how the pushrod got bent like that? While you are at it, check that the coupling between the bellcrank shaft (the bit the slave cylinder turns) and the clutch release shaft is not broken. This coupling consists of a short piece of pipe about 50mm long, and two pins, held with split pins. This failing may have resulted in excessive movement of the slave cylinder piston and resulted in the bend.
The three coupling parts, the pipe and the two pins, are hardened, and any makeshift replacement such as a bolt is going to be shortlived.
And it is possible to replace both pins without separating the bell housing from the engine!
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Make a new pushrod out of a high tensile bolt. If you don't have access to lathe, put it in a drill and shape the head with a file.
I have made pins using grade 12 high tensile bolts. These seem to be lasting.
Aaron
Thanks.
Was wondering if I could make one. Given I’m only trying to get Sid moving so I can test the gearbox, it would only be for short term use.
I was eyeing off the brake cylinder push rod. Problem is I don’t know what the length needs to be. I had to cut the bent one to get it out as it passed through the hole in the slave bracket.
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