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Thread: Rebuilding Sid

  1. #261
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    This represents the high point of this weeks work on Sid....at least I am now comfortable while p***d off.

    Sid was finally back on his wheels, I got the bits from the UK to rebuild the hubs having found all the new gun seals were leaking. I also decided to replace the brake snails as I was having problems adjusting brakes.

    Oddly, the old adjusters on Sid had the springs inside the plate so that the shoes would not sit properly. Some spare back plates had the springs outside and fitting them this way made the shoes sit right with the springs in the right place.

    But after all this I found that the brake adjusting issue was actually caused by the pins in the shoes falling out. None of them are tight and on half the shoes they have fallen out.

    Given the sensitivity of some I won’t say what colour box they came in but you can probably guess.

    So I’m back to where I was three months ago.

  2. #262
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    Repco has brake shoes. My gun seals leaked, but didn't use sealant.
    Bought permatex red, high temp. Which I mentioned earlier in this post.
    Am going to have another go.
    Some overseas LR forums, talk about loose pin problems.
    But no Blue Box issues, of which many have been happy with.

    whitehillbilly.

  3. #263
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    Rebuilding Sid

    New protex shoes on order, found somewhere offering a good deal at $70 an axle so bit more comfort.

    I did some more investigation and research and I am far from happy. The loose pin issue is well known and comes up a lot. A pin falling out means no effective brakes on that drum.

    But worse was the note I saw on the British auto parts website. Under the series brake shoes they actually have a warning noting that 1 in 10 sets of aftermarket brake shoes they sell fail.... and they recommend the mintex brand instead.

    Think on that.... 10% of the critical life or death components by that manufacturer, in their experience, fail.

    To be fair, they don’t mention the brand.

  4. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cadas View Post

    I did some more investigation and research and I am far from happy. The loose pin issue is well known and comes up a lot. A pin falling out means no effective brakes on that drum.
    If the pin fell out (and didn't jam somewhere) it would mean you'd have to pump the pedal a couple of times to get brakes. Far from ideal but you'd still have brakes. I'd be more worried about a pin floating around loose in the drum.

    I check the pins when re-assembling and my shoes don't come out of a blue box typically.
    I can get re-lined shoes locally but with the move away from drums to discs they sometime don't have swapover shoes in stock so mine have to be sent to WA for re-lining.
    They are meant to be 'trade only' and I haven't used them for a couple of years but costs were reasonable.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  5. #265
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    Stripping down the spares car as #1 son has bought a car and I’m fed up being blocked in.

    There’s not much left worth keeping but some bits of anyone is interested. There’s a hand throttle, decent steering box, pedal boxes. Front axle, diff seem ok, but swivels are rusty on exposed parts. Front springs are salvageable.

    Ongoing work on brakes, thought I’d compare protec units to blue ones

    Big difference is the welding, continuous on protec, spot welds on cheap ones. Cheap shoes are thicker, but protec is tapered.


    Big difference as well are pins. Welded in the protec, but in the cheap ones...... not so much.

  6. #266
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    The bean can brake fluid reservoir has some value

    Cheers Paul

  7. #267
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    It might clean up, doesn’t leak, so maybe.

  8. #268
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    Rebuilding Sid


    First sunny weekend for weeks so time to clear the drive.


    One chassis.... kit form.

    Engine and gearbox are good, had a look in both, no water, plenty of oil and all turning nicely so they will be kept.

    Mind you, question is where to store them long term. The blatantly obvious place (spare bedroom) was rather hastily ( in my view) rejected by others.

    The axles and diffs are good, I’ll stick them on gumtree and see, if not, more items for the shed.

    Lots of goodies of the scrap car, one that has me scratching my head is this

    Part of the hand throttle, assume it’s a cut off, the levers activate a switch in the black box. All works, just not sure what it’s for, especially as it sits about 3” below the ignition key .....

  9. #269
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    No. It is the choke knob and cable setup with the choke light switch.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #270
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    Ah, makes more sense.

    I needed one of those, there wasn’t one on Sid.

    It’s quite a contraption to turn a little light on.

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