Printable View
Thank you... polarity should have been obvious.
LEDs are diodes and only work one way.
The ones I bought require a -ve feed to the body and +ve to the end, but being originally a +ve earth car, I’d reused the old connectors in the original setup, so they were live to the body of the fuse holder.
Quick switcheroo and it’s all sorted.
Not sure why they flashed briefly, but be something funny in the ignition switch maybe.
Thank you!!
Probably a brief AC pulse from current starting to flow through the coil or some other inductance when switched on; the negative cycle of this giving a voltage the right polarity to work them. It doesn't take much to give some light from a LED.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadas
More bodywork
Fabricated some new inner mud shields
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f6276f3110.jpg
Made from heavy gauge aluminium as that’s what I’ve got lying around.
Then on to welding. Front apron has been cut presumably for a winch or bull bar. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...66adfc80d8.jpg
Both sides as so
Not pretty
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...be3e3b79df.jpg
But about does the job.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dbfe75a21a.jpg
Getting braver
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f65af43e6e.jpg
The ends had corroded out around the bolt holes and it was all getting a bit thin, so patched in a new section
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b9e0b33381.jpg
The trick I’m learning with tig welding thin aluminium is the same as riding a bike. (Or learning to ski or driving a race car for the first time) which is that you can’t be timid if you want it to work.
I struggled for ages with burning holes and lowering the power and burning holes, etc. low power simply took longer to get to the puddle, but that extra time heated everything else up.
By cranking up the power, I get a quicker puddle and you’re off and running.
The first time I skied sober I remember the point of going from fear to enjoyment of speed. With tig, that point where you are confident in controlling the puddle, you seem to have more time to control everything.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...670d8ca7b7.jpg
Nothing’s bolted together yet, but I reckon that’s about as straight as it’s ever been in its life. Not bad for something that was a kids climbing frame for 20+ years.
Does anyone know where I can get the wing fixing bolts that go into the firewall ASAP?
I ordered the captive nuts and forgot the bolts and I plan to have these painted in the next week or so.
Finally took on the big welding challenge.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...04474c4e19.jpg
There’s a lot to replace. This was a long job.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3d6a69a31e.jpg
New panel made, think this is the most care I’ve ever taken on patching, but I’m finding that tig welding is unforgiving.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9e54f17573.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0b84ee3020.jpg
Took it very slow, lots of tacks, loads of cleaning and plenty of acetone.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2fd524aa6d.jpg
All done. I’ll grind it back tomorrow and my guess is I’ll have a couple of cracks to deal with. Not quite enough experience to get every weld perfect. Pleased though, no distortion to speak of.
Other fun today, I bought a new distributor as the old one I had refurbished had too much play in the shaft. I’ll post details of the retailer later but fantastic service, ordered yesterday morning, arrived from Melbourne today.
Sid runs much better now.
Big stuff is done.
The Penny finally dropped on the welding. I found (yet another) you tube video that contained the missing bits of info that the other 100+ don’t mention.
All vids say the same, heat, create puddle, start to move torch and then add filler. Problem is that on thin stuff I wasn’t getting penetration and while the weld looked perfect, the backside still has a visible joint which causes cracking.
This magic video added a step, when the puddle forms, wait until you see the puddle drop. Hard to describe but the puddle goes from convex to concave and then you go for it with filler. It’s almost imperceptible, but after a few go’s you get a sense of when it happens.
What’s happening is that the aluminium melts all the way through and is held in place by surface tension, the drop is the puddle bulging underneath. Half a second to long and you have a hole... it’s a fine balance.
Despite the celebratory cuppa, the fun did not end. The new panel was 10mm too wide at the top
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...78b5439545.jpg
Decided to dress the edge and roll the bend line using hammer/ dolly rather than cut and weld.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8bd7420ef0.jpg
And done
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f9bf90adb8.jpg
Ready for epoxy and filling.
These wings were probably beyond saving in reality, but I’m pleased with the outcome. I did have sids original wings, these came off the scrap landy and they have these which Sid did not have. I’m assuming these were factory indicators?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f07cfb98d2.jpg
Today’s other jobs are fitting the fuel tank and sorting leaks in the carb. It’s weeping from the top gasket and banjo washer. Guessing some truing up is needed.
Factory park lights. Indicators were added later. Had to be drilled etc. New front panels came with the park light hole only as well. Good job there. Cheers
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...30c7f3196c.jpg
Epoxy done.... let the mess begin!
frustrating day, I've had the engine in a few bits... out of an abundence of caution and to confirm I make a cock up some while back. I realised the distributor is 180 degrees out. After stripping the front of the engine down and going through the timing set up again, I got everything else right, but looks as though I have put the helical gear in the wrong way around. I going through pics I can see that I put the dizzy drive gear in place but didn't clock the slot is off centre.... I did ponder fixing it, but recalled what a pain it was to fit on the engine stand so doing it in situ did not appeal... the distributor can stay as is.
carb is fixed temporarily.... the metric thread that was bodged to whitworth is now a nice secure BSP thread.... New lid on order from the UK but no leaks in the interim.
Question for those that have done more of these... rear brakes.
Whenever I see a photo of a rear brake shoe install, I can;t help but notice that they all have the brake cylinder at 12 o'clock. On mine, the cylinder is at 11'ish. I have a selection of back plates, all the same, and all give the same outcome. The cause appears to be the bolt holes in the axle, on mine, the bolt holes are aligned such that the top bolts are at 11 and 1, symetrical yet on all the pictures I see of axles, they seem to be rotated, more sort of 12 and 2.
The axle is bang upright... and it's the one that came off Sid originally. My assumption is that the off-vertical cylinder makes no difference, I am just curious.
Yes, they are on the correct sides... I have measured.