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Thread: Rebuilding Sid

  1. #381
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    273

    Itís taken a few months but finally, a brand new unused, original lid for the solex. And correct thread banjo.

  2. #382
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    273
    Back to tub thumping

    The rear aluminium cross member is a mess.
    And welding this kit is going to test the patience.


    Thereís been a couple of prangs I reckon.

    So to heck with that


    Made a new one. Itís welded together out of two pieces of 3mm 25x32 angle which fits perfectly and I could make it including all the welding in under an hour. And the braces



    The real benefit is that I now have a straight end to start rebuilding all the panels from.



    Much neater

  3. #383
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    273
    Todayís episode of Land Rover welding and fabrication focuses on....

    Fitting an alternator. ... yep.

    As Iíve bought a dynamo bodied alternator, the challenge in fitting it is that everything that held a dynamo in place was chucked away when the alternator went in.

    There is a part you can buy but photos show itís only made from folded steel, so decided to fabricate one.



    The aim is to make it slightly shorter and use Packers to dial in the alignment. Thereís no real adjustment other than spacers to align the pulleys.



    Spacers can be cut from the old alternator!! This will test the patience, you can only test it by fitting the alternator and doing everything to tight, underneath the car, supporting the alternator with your finger tips hoping it doesnít drop in your head. 8 or 9 times seems about par.

    The new dynamo came with spade fittings, my new loom has rings, not sure if itís intentional but I found I could turn the fitting around and end up with a bolt extending out rather than a screw head holding the spade bit.



    All in, done, running and the alternator light has finally gone out.


  4. #384
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    273
    Galvanising had started to arrive




  5. #385
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    273
    More galvanising


    Looks brilliant. But I am now seriously p**d with myself for not doing the chassis. Talking to the plant, it would have been about $300 and done overnight. Still.... next one gets done.

    Cheered myself up with the rivet gun... that never gets old.


  6. #386
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,693
    Aren't you supposed to put the wear strips on first??
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

  7. #387
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    273
    You mean the strips inside the tub? Donít think so.

    The only rivets Iíve put in are the braces to ribs on the tub floor. The holes for all the strips are still there waiting until after the tub is painted.

    The only other bits to fit are the rubber pads, but they get riveted on from underneath.

    The outer rivets for each brace are the strange double headed type which I am still looking for options there. Likely to be big pop rivets or maybe solid head.

    I found a proper rivet hammer tool from an aircraft supplier selling kits for apprentices. Not tried it yet.

  8. #388
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    3,073
    So was Kev able to supply the pully & fan for the alternator.

  9. #389
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    273
    Yes, he found a set and after a bit of a clean up it did the job perfectly.

    Thanks for the heads up!

    Paul

  10. #390
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    273

    Rebuilding Sid

    Fiddly bits today

    Door catches, old ones were seized so either buy new or restore.


    These do not like coming apart, thereís four steel rivets and a pin to get out.

    My other issue is they donít fit the new doors and have no confidence that new ones would either. Back plates needed to be straightened and re bent to the new door profile.

    New springs from Bunnings!


    And then all finished and put back together with new lock


    In stripping them I removed the plastic coating on the handles as you can buy plastic dip in black for $30..... only to find out that itís $80 postage for a 400ml can. So they are staying steel for now.

    New rivets because I wanted to test the rivet hammer, new favourite tool, nothing like an air hammer, very gentle and quiet. Donít have the right sized bit so will need to order another, but this will make putting the galv on a piece of cake.

    Next job on tub is patching the front bolt supports.


    Folded up a piece of 3mm


    Ready to weld after a bit of cleaning. 3mm aluminium is a doddle to tig weld.

    I realised I went at tig the wrong way round, starting on wafer thin body panels and working my way back to heavy usage metal. Rebuilding Sid

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