It's looking very nice in its orange!
How did you find spraying in the marquee? In particular, how did you find the build up of paint mist? Did it work OK, or would extra forced ventilation be beneficial?
Cheers,
Martin
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It's looking very nice in its orange!
How did you find spraying in the marquee? In particular, how did you find the build up of paint mist? Did it work OK, or would extra forced ventilation be beneficial?
Cheers,
Martin
Hi, thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by turkeybrain
It wasn’t too bad, There were a couple of moments when I could see mist, but I just stopped for a second and let it drop.
On the final coats, because it’s beautiful weather here, I left one side off the marquee (downwind) and it kept the tent really clear. Watch for cars and neighbours though.
Wind is your enemy though, you can’t get the walls tight enough to stop flapping and potentially hitting the wet paint. I’d buy a 6x3 if I was doing it Again.
One disadvantage of orange is I struggled for plausible deniability when my wife pointed out some fine orange specks on her mini.
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Now that’s more like it. You can see the reflections.
Big learning curve of the day (apart from recognising personal limitations) is that to spray well, you have to be able to see.
The full face air feed mask was obscuring vision. Being outside I switched to a conventional half mask and the difference is incredible. If you can watch the paint flow as it hits the metal, you can balance coverage with risk of runs and ensure an even coat.
I’m going to have to do some thinking about masks.
Grease nipples....
I replaced all the UJ’s in the prop shafts and just noticed this evening one of the grease nipples has sheared off. Assuming I can get the threaded bit out, does anyone know what thread they are likely to be?
From memory, 1/8"BSP used to be common, but they are likely to be metric today (or pressed in!). I can't recall having a grease nipple out on a recently made U-joint.
Thanks, I’m going to assume being a new unit is metric, but who knows. Fortunately the local repco has a Hardy spicer replacement UJ in stock for $30, think that’s a better option than messing with a cheap UJ.
Friday night and getting blinged up !!!
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If you plan on doing this, get an air riveter.... you will thank me... I’ve done over 50 pop rivets and only half way.... then there’s the solid rivets.
Getting sooo close......
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Put another 100+ rivets in yesterday and today was all about door alignment.
Fitting the sills is a fun job...
The video on you tube about adjusting the door openings (the one with the red stick and 34&3/4” is close but there is a but which had me head scratching for ages.
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Fitting spacers.
I cut my bit of dowel to the exact measurements but every time I adjusted the gap to be perfect, it was 5mm too wide.
Problem I found is that the returns on the pillars is not square, which matches the inner reveals of the doors.
Threw stick away and measured the gap across the face of the opening and that was perfect.
Bulkhead might a 1-2mm out but will look at that on final door fit after the seals go in.
Somehow I feel you are exceeding the precision of Rover's original assembly!
Just one word, NICeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee