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Thread: Rebuilding Sid

  1. #501
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    South Australia
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    Finally, I have a hood.


    Fair play to QLD consumer affairs, they scared me when I spoke to them (they do not mess about) but no idea what they said to the guy at Red Earth, but it worked.

    Pity it looks like November before I’ll get to go home and fit it.

    I’m also coming under surprising pressure from the wife to come home, Rebuilding Sid but then I realised the panels for her van have arrived.

    These look incredible, they are fully hand made, there’s no stamps or press dies for these, all fabricated by a small shop in North Yorkshire

  2. #502
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Outer Sydney
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    Hi Casas,
    Is that panel from 'expressed panels'? I'm interested in ordering some panels from them for an old Cortina so was interested in learning about the quality before spending the cash (the panels are a reasonable price but the freight is a killer).
    Thank you,
    Edward 🙂

  3. #503
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Hi,

    They aren’t the cheapest and yes freight is an added cost, you also have to factor in the import duties and gst which they don’t include in their price. This added $700 to our order. We took the view that even adding all that in plus the price of the van we are still only 25% off the cost of the equivalent Kombi and there’s only 3 or 4 of these in the country.

    Overall this order took 5 months, we had factored that in so wasn’t a problem. Delivery only took 3 days though!!!

    That all said, the quality looks incredible although yet to try fitting anything.

    For us this is the only provider of panels for this van, not sure if you have other options for the cortina.

    Cheers
    Paul

  4. #504
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    South Australia
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    Still in Geelong... been that long now I'm getting parts sent here... think I've managed to snag a set of original wipers which is the next project. Need restoring, but that's something I can do on the kitchen table... and given I am living on my own.... maybe even the dishwasher.

    Following todays announcements in Victoria, i realised I can go to America or UK next weekend and come back without quarantine, but I can't go home to South Australia.

    The problem with being locked down is you start spending time on parts websites.... getting ideas about an Overdrive...

    Anyone have an old Fairey they fancy parting with and seeing restored?

  5. #505
    Join Date
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    New bits to play with


    Bought from a very helpful chap in America who was asking very sensible money.

    They need a bit of tlc but should make a nice addition.

    Finally heading home this weekend

  6. #506
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
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    Here we go….





    He has been for a drive (or three). Clutch needed adjustment after first run, but by run three he was getting into it. Pulling great, gear changes … work in progress

    Bit of noise on over-run, not sure if that’s to be expected. Front diff bit clunky when I lift off. Hint of something from the front left drive, maybe. Gearbox makes a range of noises, not sure if that’s good or bad.

  7. #507
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    Apr 2019
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    One of the little niggles seen during the test drive was the odometer not working. I had rebuilt it before, clearly messed something up.

    Strip and rebuild , this time with pics.


    This is the bit you need to extract. Remove the glass from Dial, undo screws to release mechanism from the body and then remove dial. Take hand off first by holding the magnet wheel on the back and giving the handle a gentle twist.


    First wrap masking tape across the wheels and then press out the Center shaft from this end. There’s a yellow plastic disc, the toothed drive wheel, spring, metal clip and brass bush at this end and a brass ring at the other.

    Found my error here, the toothed drive wheel was back to front, ribbed side faces out.


    Inside the wheels you have metal plates with little yellow cogs that mesh with teeth on the inside of each number wheel.

    Reassembling it’s easy,
    There’s a hole through each cog and wheel, slide each piece on and wiggle until it sits flush. If you can see any yellow, it’s not in properly. When assembled, put masking tape on the front. Using this method only works for 00000.

    You can set the odometer to any mileage, but you have to align the wheels by hand and the yellow cogs step in half digit increments. If you’re not careful you can be misaligned by half a digit, you have to start again. Ultimately, the metal tabs must be 180’ from the number you want to see.

    The tabs poking up should align, these are important later, very fiddly if you are not using the alignment holes.

    Refit metal clip, it hooks over the tag on the metal disk that pokes out, then bush, spring and toothed disk. Two thin strips of tape hold it compressed so you can refit into housing. You have to remove the shaft and slot in from the end (remembering the brass ring) the shaft has a taper on one end to help, but the tape should make it simple.

    The toothed disk is plastic and has a key that fits the shaft, it’s fragile, if the key breaks off it’s stuffed.


    All back together. The metal tabs slot into a groove on the back plate. This aligns the digits and cogs correctly.

    Make sure the lever arm is engaged on the toothed wheel. And that the wheel is the right way around.

  8. #508
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    Northern NSW.Australia
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    Great Speedo write up, with Pics.
    Thanks.

    whitehillbilly

  9. #509
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    South Australia
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    Rebuilding Sid

    Spare tyre conundrums today.

    Because I liked the look of Sid with the old Olympic chunky tyres, I went with something the same. But they don’t mount easily on the bonnet.

    So fabricated a new mounting plate that uses the original mounting bolts.




    Works nicely, plan is to put rubber spacers and then pins to hold the wheel and then tighten down the holding bolts to make it snug. The thinking being that there’s no extra spanners and nuts and I can add a padlock if need be.

    With all that done I am slightly bothered by the inability to see anything out the windscreen.

    So my thinking now is to use a spare rim I had powder coated to fit a skinny 6” tire and have it as a ‘spacesaver’ spare.

    That way I can a) see, and b) use the original fittings.

  10. #510
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Rebuilding Sid

    With only limited time available between mince pies, small jobs today.


    Only got one of these


    Slot cut in the end of a 10mm rod from Bunnings, just enough to tap in a bit of 3mm bar. With touch with the tig.

    (After fighting aluminium with the tig for a year..steel is a dream).


    Half way, but I should have done the next step first. Easier to Center drill if you can put the workpiece in the Chuck


    Drilled and tapped a 1/4” unf hole up the end, then just shaping with a angle grinder.
    30mm door stops from Bunnings are exactly the right size and only a $1.63.

    I also got lucky with the cotter pins, I had to replace the garage door to get Sid out, and all the pins on the old mechanism were 10mm….result!!!

    Not sure if I need to kink the new one Rebuilding Sid

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