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I looked at that. Home made roof. Firewall shagged. Wasp nests in the head ports. Original carby tho. Solex. No exhaust manifold. I was thinking about getting it for the tub but the one ive got is better. I couldnt really justify the asking price for what i thought it was worth. Good for parts tho i thought. Good on ya. [emoji106]
Is there a way to differentiate between the suffix A and suffix B rear axles?
Not that i know of. They are mostly all the same as far as i know.
I know there were differences in front axles. The swivel pins were different but due to them being assembled in Aust the cut off points were very blurred so to speak
The simple answer is to look at the number stamped on the axle (if you can find it).Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadas
Looking at the parts book, although it distinguishes the change by vehicle suffix not axle suffix, it seems that there are differences, although it is likely not all happened at the same time. These include the change from BSF to UNF for the spcial bolts mounting the differential to the axle housing (and probably elsewhere as well), and changes to the arrangements for preload on the pinion bearings.
However, it will be hard to see the difference between the two axles and they are fully interchangeable, although some of the parts may not be.
The only major change was for vehicle suffix H which went to the Series 3 axle. Note that for 109 Series 2a the salisbury axle was an option from about suffix F. Also note that 88 and 109 axles are not interchangeable - the 88 springs are under the chassis, the 109 springs are next to it!
And add the usual rider - your 2a is around 50-60 years old, and unless you have documented history, you never know whether the axle assembly (or anything else) is what it had when it left the factory!
Found it....
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...33763b1410.jpg
And on the original axle as well, but the rust made this tricky. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...36aa953f37.jpg
The punching on both axles is pretty light.... not obvious.
In trying to buy new bearing sets, all the suppliers seem to offer a ‘suffix A’ or ‘suffix B’ option. This change occurred in 1964 it seems ( but I assumed these new axles wouldn’t make it over here for a few more years)
But, there must be a difference as Type A bearings are 3x the price of type B.
Today work progressed on the chassis. Pushed Sid outside and went all over the back end with a wire wheel before finishing the nooks and crannies with a sand blaster.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8fd2ff220c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...97a6018f02.jpg
Worked really well and he’s ready for a coat of converter and primer.
Back axle and springs have now been cut off ready for removal. I was going to refurb the springs, but wondering if it’s worth it. Wife is keen to use the spare tub for a trailer, so old springs could go on that.
The spare landy has had the springs modified, removing 5 leafs so it’s scraping the floor at the back.
The spare has cleaned up well, chuffed. Body great, chassis about 80%. Original air filter and carb are a bonus as is the seat box and floors. Even found the original starter handle.
Interesting- according to my parts book the wheel bearings remained the same throughout S2a production. But they did change during late S3 production, and the older ones are more expensive. I wonder if they are confusing S3 and S2a.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadas
Swivel bearings changed in early S2a production, but no changeover date is quoted. The early cone bearings are best replaced with the later railko bushes, but it is not a simple change.
I thought the same, the original parts manual doesn't show a difference, only referring to part 219550. That though rarely comes up on sites. But in searching all of the major parts sites, Ashcrofts, British Auto, Craddocks, Paddocks, Bearmach, etc..... all state that the cheaper bearing is 1965 on or 'suffix B' axles. It affects both the inner and outer pinion bearings and the cost difference for each is about 3x.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Can't find any information on why or what the material difference is. Only thing that perhaps comes to mind is the position of the oil seal but that would only affect the outer bearing.
Thought process today is to leave the pinion bearings well alone and just replace the carrier bearings (as these are the only ones with damage). the pinion bearings are unmarked and running smooth and there's no play or run out when in place. I have a grand total of 5 differentials in my possession so I can take time to refurbish another while this one is on the car.
Interesting, digging into this first diff, the unit has been rebuilt before. I can't find the source of the large cast lump of metal, but markings on the inside of the case suggest something came loose so I think it might be leftover from that event. The carrier bearing that has failed I think is one of the replacement parts as it's a Timken.
On the subject of wheel bearings, thinking about it, I don't think I have ever had to replace a wheel bearing on a Series Landrover (except a semifloating one on the S1 I used to own). My experience is they are very long lasting if correctly adjusted and you don't try to lubricate them with mud.