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Thread: Rebuilding Sid

  1. #1
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    Rebuilding Sid



    We’ve had the new project ‘Sid’ for a couple of months now, but not been able to get going on him until this weekend. Seems the kids bathroom was deemed ‘more important’

    The plan for Sid will be a full restoration. But as he was a complete non-runner, I’m keen to get him driving around so I can see how good/ bad the mechanicals are.

    So far (between tiling) all I’ve been able to do is get the engine running, do a service and clean up the carb. Today, though, the bathroom is done and I’ve been allowed back into the garage.

    First job is replacing the brakes. Meet my new favourite tools



    Back drums



    Took heat to get this drum off, that’s a first. Nothing leaking though. Hub dust cap is full of fluid, bright red, wasn’t expecting that.

    Front drums a complete pig to remove.



    Home made drum puller. Takes about 10 minutes to set up trying to do two screw clamps while holding the bar with your knees.. get it tight and give it a whack. Warning though, you only get one hit... cos it all crashes to the floor.

    This drum was full of fluid. Work has stopped though... seems the parts supplier who took four weeks to send me the bits from the UK thought it would be really nice to only send half the nuts needed for the cylinders. And only one brake pipe, not the traditional two.

    Bless them .......

    Questions I have; I need new drums... any recommendations? back drums look like SWB drums with only one set screw, front has three. Are they interchangeable or have I got a different set of hubs.

    There’s a mounting plate for something above the axel, ext to bump stop, any ideas


  2. #2
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    Gday mate
    holes through chassis in your last picture are for the axle check strap

    goes from one set of holes, under axle and then to next set of holes on opposite sides of chassis

    Cheers Paul

  3. #3
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    That would have to be the cruddiest brake drum I’ve ever seen!



    Good luck with it, and have fun. Now I want a full build thread, down to microscopic detail, and lots, lots of pics!

    Re new drums: they are available, you can get them from the usual UK suppliers, they are heavy and freight will be high, or you can get them from your local “Better Brakes”. Check the price though, you might find they are no cheaper than the UK ones, even including freight.

    Clean up your old ones and take them to a brake shop, they might stand another hone, and there are such things as oversized shoes that are a bit thicker than the standard. That will save you some bucks.

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The drums look correct from the pictures (But not always easy to see sizes in pictures) - easy to check they are lwb vs swb - diameter of the braking surface is 11" vs 10".

    Number of setscrew holes seems to vary, not a difference between models. There should be one hole that is tapped not countersunk. A 3/8W?" bolt screwed into it will ease the drum off, although you may need a helping hand with a hammer - it tilts the drum, so give it a good belt either with a rubber hammer or with a wood cushion outside the hole the bolt is in.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    Ohh awesome, another rebuild thread
    Welcome aboard.



    I just bought a full set of brake shoes and the snails for my little girl a couple of weeks ago from a place in Melbourne (around the corner from where I live/lived), but I can't remember what I paid,, not much though I think. When I find my associated paperwork, it's got the price of drums on it too. I'll check it when I get a chance.

  6. #6
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    Cheers... it’s going to be a fun project.

    Looking again at drums and pictures they are likely correct, all 11”. Front drums can be refurbished I think, the fluid leaks have sent steel black, but the drums are smooth.

    Back brakes have clearly not worked for a long time. Scale rust on inside, cleaned it up for the test runs but the pitting is terrible.

    Ordered missing parts for the ‘new brakes’, while they make there way here I’ll be changing over the various master cylinders and pipes.

  7. #7
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    If you screw a bolt into the threaded hole in the brake drum then give the drum a hit with a hammer after backing the brake adjusters off it should release with the help of WD40. You should not need any pullers.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    If you screw a bolt into the threaded hole in the brake drum then give the drum a hit with a hammer after backing the brake adjusters off it should release with the help of WD40. You should not need any pullers.
    I didn’t have any 3/8 bolts unfortunately..... I do now for the other side when the missing parts arrive. I’m experimenting and have ordered from an Australian site. Hopefully it comes quicker than the UK delivery would have. We’ll see, brake pads I ordered for my other car took 20 days from Sydney.

  9. #9
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    Got lucky today and got more done.

    I had a day off work (yay!) but it was our wedding anniversary (er...yay!) but unfortunately Mrs Cadas and I weren’t aligned on what would be an ideal way to celebrate... nothing says ‘I love you’ like handing your loved one spanners while they are under a car.

    But I should have had more faith in my lovely wife.... after brunch by the beach I was sent to the garage for the afternoon. (Yay!)

    Today’s challenge was the master cylinders. They would be fun at the best of times but someone had used strange bolts that required a 19/32 spanner... or to be more accurate two of them. And they were nylock nuts so they took a couple of hours to undo working up through the hole in the bulkhead.



    Found one problem with the clutch...



    Brake cylinder was different, pic doesn’t show clearly but this was twice the diameter of the clutch cylinder and did not look like it comes apart very easily.



    Still... good outcome.

    Rest of the afternoon was spent remaking brake pipes from the kit I’d bought. All of the pipes seem to be too long. Not a problem on the long pipes, but the short pipes are 8-10 inches too long. So making them fit properly, cutting and re-flaring.

  10. #10
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    I find it easier to take the whole pedal box out, and then remove the master cylinder on the bench.

    Are you sure that it is 19/32AF? Could it be 5/16BSW / 3/8BSF?

    Aaron

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