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Thread: Series Starter Solenoid Question.

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    From images I have just seen on the Bay, access to the guts appears a tad formidable, the folded circumference rear appears to have been machine rolled onto the "tin can" body.

    Many careful hacksaw cuts around the periphery may need to be done & then split open unless I can get a small charge of C4 into it.

    Another Earth shattering update!

    JD. on your advice I have decided to replace like for like for the reasons given by you . There are stacks of Start buttons out there to do the same job (ie. Flashy chrome & backlit etc) so I decided in the interests of trouble free motoring & originality I would change it to a "Genuine" After Market" one, as I didn't want to get stuck out in the middle of a dry paddock in Summer or anywhere else for that matter.


    Could not undo the Knob fixing so brought in the big guns & angle ground the knob off so I could remove the switch from the firewall. Maybe I had used Loctite back then?

    Then I discovered the black knob doesn't come with a new switch, (WTF! ) so searched the shed where I had a rough idea it had disappeared to. (Read, where i had tossed it)

    Then I couldn't remove the cut thread that was left behind so WD40 overnight & then found I couldn't get pliers or pincers on to the remaining thread.

    In a Light Bulb moment I used a pair of Cable Strippers with 2 pointy prongs on each arm & that was able to get a good grip so a few turns back & forth & good olde WD had done it's job & the thread came out fine.
    Found a small tin of Gloss Black Enamel that had stood on the shelf for aprox 30 years which was still fluid & usable (quality paint in those days) so gave the black knob a dip & now will wait for a new switch.


    Phewwwwww, what was the question?

  2. #12
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    Job done, although a bit of a bloody fiddle because the Battery Isolator & Starter Switch are close together due to them needing to be linked together with a heavy short U shaped cable & me having a crappy LH Shoulder with Osteo Arthritis didn't help.

    What I have noticed is with the new switch in, it seems to be quick off the mark in starting the engine which I put down to crappy contacts in the old switch which seemed a bit lazy. Makes sense to me. I'm still yet to dismantle the old one.

    Should be right for another 20 Million Miles now.

  3. #13
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    Dismantled the previous Starter Switch today & no wonder it was a tad daggy.

    The guts just fell to bitsSeries 2A starter switch 2.jpg

    The spring is centre left which appears to have collapsed, certainly the Bakelite centre had & if it had been ok elsewhere the contacts could have been cleaned up & reused.
    But now I know I have a reliable switch.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Dismantled the previous Starter Switch today & no wonder it was a tad daggy.

    The guts just fell to bitsSeries 2A starter switch 2.jpg

    The spring is centre left which appears to have collapsed, certainly the Bakelite centre had & if it had been ok elsewhere the contacts could have been cleaned up & reused.
    But now I know I have a reliable switch.
    Time to break out the araldite!
    2003 D2a TD5 Auto
    1960 Series 2 Petrol

  5. #15
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    Thanks for the suggestion, I did ponder that, albeit for a couple of milli seconds & wondered if there was such a thing these days as 'Magic Araldite'.

    Decided not to repair.

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