The 4th digit in the 2A series does not refer to year. It is just part of the serial number. So the B suffix is your clue to the date.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellytanker
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The 4th digit in the 2A series does not refer to year. It is just part of the serial number. So the B suffix is your clue to the date.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellytanker
After a period of illness then a case of guests I was finally able to target the landy again.
Celebrating this morning the resurrection of my Lucas horn. Tested it as it was not working away from the problematic steering wheel wiring and not even a spark on the battery. Disassembled by drilling out rivets and found horn full of dried mud.
One wire broken and contacts corroded. I didn't want to give in but gee aren't those pieces of contacts, wire, spring, insulators a mean thing to put together again by one screw?
Took many tries and a number of tricks (super gluing insulation in place) and bingo! Very surprised to hear it honk again.
Needs some tidying up, paint, some small bolts to reassemble and a bit of a tune but proud to not have just checked and bought a new one.
Not sure how long it will last but it will be easier to disassemble now and I now at least know how the dam thing works! It was a lot more complicated than I expected but a very interesting puzzle to solve.
There are a lot of BMC cars use these horns ( Mini ect)
You just need to look in the throte of the horn if you want the same sound, if there is a L it is a low sound if a H a high sound.
Quite often if they are not working all you need to do is give them a good bump on there side on a solid wooden block to stare them working again.
This weekend I had a much closer inspection of the rear cross member. It is a bit worse than I thought after demudding thoroughly and grinding and poking.
Thinking given these things tend to rust inside out that maybe I should get a new cross member and be done with it.
Anyone got thoughts on which manufacture to bring purchase through (given I am in Tassie)? Some look pretty tinny and the bespoke UK ones don't seem to ship to Oz that I know of.
Not sure how far gone is too far gone on this... given I want to tow a boat in the long run thinking just do it properly now, but that said it looks quite good in other areas...
Attachment 155530Attachment 155531
Been a while since I last posted so a quick catch up.
welded up b pillar
patched passenger a pillar
decided to replace driver a pillar with a replacement piece and have purchased
decided to have a go at welding up chassis rear member. That is what I bought the landy for, to learn by doing. If I stuff it up, then I can replace it!
today, removed the 36 bolts holding the roof on to start the rear disassembly. Wow, they didn’t want that to come off in a hurry!
Still no colour decision but a lot more testing. Tried the pastel green, didn’t like it. Love working on the landy though!
So another good day removing bolts readying for roof and tub removal.
Today removed the rear seat (_ bolts) and the two bolts each side onto the c pillar. And also the four bolts to the vertical bit under the seats. Drilled out rivets to the body and started to drill out the corroded floor screws.
Looks like I'll need to remove the trim behind the c pillar which I haven't heard mentioned in other breakdown descriptions.
Anything else apart from the bolts on the rear chassis member?Attachment 159877Attachment 159878Attachment 159879
Another step toward dismantling the rear. Rear footwell out! Had to drill every floor screw out as were all rusted in. Think I might be replacing with stainless steel. Floor panel good and chassis still showing original paint (after washing)! What’s the thoughts on the floor cross members, remove and gal or just clean up, repaint and put a noise/chip coat on? Haven’t decided whether to gal trim parts yet. Anybody got a solid rivet gun I could borrow? Feeling good at the progress even though there is less car on the driveway each day.Attachment 160670Attachment 160671Attachment 160672Attachment 160673
