Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Glenorchy Tasmania Series 2A LWB SW

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Glenorchy Tasmania Series 2A LWB SW

    Glad to be starting a build thread on our new project, an as yet unnamed Series 2A 2 1/4 petrol Station Wagon.

    We have owned Landys before and done light restos, this one is going to be a bit more project than rolling for a while.

    The chassis number indicates it was a CKD and built in 1960 (4th number 0) but then the number on the dash says it is a series 2A b spec from around 1963... still trying to work it out.

    On the weekend we washed it (best way to get to know a car) and emptied it of years of trash and grime. Most of the paint fell off but the chassis looks good, bulkhead and B pillars both need welding but not too far gone, and the window sills have rotted out. Other than that it looks all there and definitely fixable. We don't know the status of the engine or gearbox and no overdrive unfortunately but does have freewheeling hubs.

    We are planning our resto now and intend to use it for family adventure (family of four hence four door) and so it wont be a trailer queen. First thing to do is to stop the rot and fix the b pillars and bulkhead before its too late.

    Pictures below as found:

    Screen Shot 2019-09-04 at 1.38.28 pm.jpgScreen Shot 2019-09-04 at 1.38.36 pm.jpgScreen Shot 2019-09-04 at 1.37.56 pm.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    520
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey Bellytanker, there's a few forum members around Hobart area. I'm up at New Norfolk area, so give us a shout if you need any help.

    Cheers,
    John

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Brakes unseized

    Thanks John, we'll probably take you up on that offer. We are not experts but very keen.

    Today was a great day on the landy. Having read as many forums as I could on unseizing brakes I was ready for lots of skinned knuckles, hammering and cussing. Turns out it went pretty smoothly (luckily).

    First I jacked up the wheels to see if I could see where the binding lay. It quickly proved to be the transmission hand brake. This was a thing I didn't really know about prior to researching so thanks again forums.

    I took the centre seat out to check what was going on. The rod mechanism seemed in order but was bottoming out on the bottom the opening so was thinking of adjusting it. First wanted to see if the adjuster would help on the back of the brake and bingo! Released!

    A bit more fettling and I had an operational hand brake, and more importantly, not seized brakes so was able to get the beast round the back so we can work on her in comfort.

    Job done and I feel like a shed champion. It's the reason we own them I guess.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Bulkhead inspection

    Now task 1 complete, I thought i’d Carry on and look at task 2: starting to fix bulkhead and b pillar. this meant removing the bog and seeing the damaged hidden underneath.

    The photos below show the damage. The tops of the BH seems pretty good, as does the LH side but the right side is pretty chewed. That said I don’t believe it is a lost cause and I took a welding course last year at TAFE for just such a journey. Time to get serious and start chopping and prepping for some replacement metal.

    What I am not clear on though is there is meant to be some structure under the skin here and not sure as to how to asses this component...?

    Time also to invest in a welder. Thinking I might get away with stick. I do prefer Mig but cost an issue.

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,804
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Not really any structure. The firewall, also called the bulkhead, is made up of a number of pressings of fairly thin sheet steel, spot welded together. From memory there is a piece of RHS up the door pillar, but that is about it. The bulkhead is quite complex, but there are repair pieces available for the commonly rusted bits. You might want to at least remove the doors and mudguards as well as the bonnet before starting on repairs, so you can get a better idea of what is involved. Removing these bits is quite easy, except you are almost certain to run into some seized bolts, which can be an issue, especially where they are screwed into captive nuts.

    Have fun!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Welder and panels

    Thanks John, "bolt on, grind off" I have overheard.

    I agree that wing is asking to be removed so it just may well be soon. Hopefully not too disastrous underneath. Anything else I should be planning on doing while the driver side wing is off?

    I have been researching welders and given the thinness of the metal on the bulkhead panels I think my idea of going stick only might be pushing it a bit far given my skill level is basically beginner.

    I am impressed about the options of the Unimig 185. Can do a range of weld types for a good price. Need to save up a few pennies first so will get onto some other jobs as that happens.

    What colour to go is still a question. I want to tow an old timber boat I have with it (a Hartley 19 foot) and am thinking of pairing the paint.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    520
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It'll be interesting to see how you go with the Unimig 185, I recently picked up a second hand SIP Migmate 130 off gumtree for $160. I had used a friends SIP mig (170/180) for most of my Landy welding, so very happy with the brand.

    Cheers,
    John


  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,804
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Mudguard off enables you to have a good look at the other bits of sheet steel - rest of the bulkhead, radiator support, chassis. If you have to do anything on the engine, brake or clutch master cylinders, steering box, drag link, brake tubing, clutch slave cylinder, front suspension (bushes, springs, shocks etc) swivels, hubs - just about everything in front of the firewall is easier with the mudguard off. And it is not a big job.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Wing off!

    Very happy with progress this morning, the driver's side wing is off! Now the dog can see the rabbit

    The news is pretty good. No real hidden nasties exposed which I'd imagine is pretty rare. I knew the footwell had been patched and was expecting a mess but whoever did did an alright job and it can stay. There is some rust at the too that will need some attention but not a huge problem.

    Bulkhead has some more holes in tricky places but I am looking forward to learning how to tackle these and get on top of them bit by bit.

    Radiator bracket and other steel work in excellent condition.

    Brake lines rusted and flexis crusty so am going to replace the lot. I am keep to maximise safety and usability so looking to upgrade. Having read about Cookies great work and kit this would be a dream solution... Anyone know if he is going to start making kits again?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    19
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Colour test paint and.progress

    We have had a marine blue, a dark green and a pink landy before but that was in the UK and this is a different landscape pallette. The original was grey but it is just too cold, especially when we want it towing our funky boat. So we have started testing colours with a predominantly grey but with blue and green in it to give it a bit of interest. It's good but not convinced yet. Going to try a few more samples.

    For the chassis I am going to use.what I have used before and was happy with the result and that is rustoleum satin black in both brush on and spray. For the roof and wheels, rustoleum almond which is a match for limestone.i have ordered cans of that today.

    Finally have also committed to welder and bought the unimig 185. Should arrive next week. Very excited about that. Can really get into the project.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!