I'm cooking dinner, so not going to check right now, but, if I remember, I'll go and check. I seem to remember I actually have a spanner that fits, but I don't rember which!
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I'm cooking dinner, so not going to check right now, but, if I remember, I'll go and check. I seem to remember I actually have a spanner that fits, but I don't rember which!
Hello All,
I found another site about threads and spanners. Antarmike's post (Reply #8) describes that ....
An 1/8" BSW 3/16 BSF has an opening of 8.64mm a 2BA bolt or nut is 8.23mm.
Accessed 22nd January 2020 from, Spanners & Sockets... Advice please
I have a Metric Vernier Calliper. It is stored somewhere... I bought some 2nd hand pallet racking and industrial shelving. Everything was taken off the old storage and placed temporarily into the new storage system. However, since the move onto the new shelves/racks things have remained unsorted. Who knows where the fancy measuring stick is lurking now? It does make life interesting sometimes
Kind regards
Lionel
Checked this morning - my 2BA spanner fits the heads on the swivel bolts on my 2A.
Sorry, that is what I meant. Getting a bit hectic. I was thinking about the fire. Now at the stage of putting suitcases in the car.
Hello All,
I gave the Whitworth spanners and sockets a good working out today. I dissected Lazarus's gear box and transfer case. There are a couple of things different between the 2A and the Series III. The clutch hydraulics and their linkages seem to be more involved on the 2A.
My biggest issue was separating parts that had some form of sealer used. A grip like Hercules on a very good day. The camouflage paint was still clear on the gear box and transfer cast so the gasket goop might have been some form of "Army Special".
When I first pulled the gear box out of the chassis I noticed that while the box was tilted water was flowing out freely. Lazarus spent a number of years with previous owners parked out in the elements. I also water pressure cleaned the gear box so I was concerned about more water getting inside the box. Once the top covers came off the sight was not a pretty one. ... More later ... The dinner bell just sounded ...
Kind regards
Lionel
... some time later....
When I started today I could not select any gears. The gear stick travelled freely across the neutral gates but would not engage any gear. When I grabbed the primary pinion it would not rotate Nor could I feel the main shaft or the lay shaft rotate. The gear box was stuck solid. When the covers came off I saw rusty looking crud filling up the space between each of the gear teeth. I figured that I might as well keep going with the dissection to see what the conditions actually were beyond the first impression.
Once I had undone the drain plug heaps of water poured out - and far from clean or healthy looking oil leached out. Plus there was a really rank smell. After I had the bell housing off I ran my fingers through the sediment on the bottom of the main gear box housing. A lot of what can only be described as flakes came out. Plus all the teeth were full of some form of sediment and a coating of grease.
As I pulled sprockets off and cleaned the teeth none had rust, no chipped teeth. No signs of wear on the teeth.
When I had everything apart from the cluster in the transfer case I poured the collection of oil and gunk through a sieve that has a magnetic base. What I thought were rust flakes were not metallic. When I rubbed the flakes between my fingers it seemed like something like shellac flakes. Yes when the oil is rubbed between my fingers it does feel like there is a fine metallic grit in the oil. It is like some insect had gained access into the gearbox and then tried to colonise it with flaky petitions between the gear teeth.
I worked on the gear box while it was on the trailer as it was parked out in the sunshine. I did start taking pictures however my phone started to get very hot to the touch. So no photos were taken of what the gears looked like before I cleaned off the gunk built up between the gear teeth.
There bearings seem to be shot though. The primary pinion and the main shaft did come loose. The third/forth gear synchroniser does not feel or look that special though. Plus, the primary pinion bearing and the bearings in the housing that support the main shaft are really crusty and really rough to spin. They feel like they have gravel in them. They were ceased before. They may just need a clean - teehee.
I am really surprised so far that the gears are not a rusty mess. There are no broken synchro springs or bits and pieces of gear tooth in the oil sludge. Everything will get cleaned - inspected more closely and bagged and tagged.
Oh as this is the first time I have worked on a gear box every thing that looks okay could be through my ignorance not as it seems to me. My apologies if I have not used the correct terminology relating to gear boxes.
I must write that I am getting increasingly more suspicious if the last owner before me ever drove the vehicle. I would not be surprised if the vehicle was not "parked up" when he bought it and it was towed around their yard - before the steering ceased.
Kind regards
Lionel
Hello All,
I had a squiz online last night hunting for named bearings for a Series 2A and I found a UK Land Rover thread in LandyZone. The information may be out of date by now - it was posted from New Zealand member, Jackual_NZ in September 2009.
Constant mesh pinon X1 RLS12/C3
Gearbox front seal (suffix H on) X1 35x50x10SLR
Primary pinion & Mainshaft Seal (sufix H on) X2 35x50x10SLR
Mainshaft Front X1 RA156 (NDH)
Mainshaft Rear X1 6307/C3
Mainshaft Rear Seal X1 193-300-50SLR
Layshaft Front (Suffix A) X1 RMS6/C2
Layshaft Front (Suffix B) X1 6305/C3
Output Shaft Seal (F&R to '78) X2 162-250-50SSL
Output Shaft Seal (F&R '78 on) X2 162-250-50DLR
Speedo Pinion Seal X1 062-100-18SLR
Accessed 29th January from Series 3 Gear Box bearing part numbers | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum
If you know any more parts numbers for 2A 1963 gear box bearings and seals feel free to add them into the thread. Thank you
Kind regards
Lionel
Hello All,
Can someone confirm if the Primary Pinion Shaft Lock Nut - Part Number Part No 213416 has a standard thread - as in counter clockwise to undo?
Apart from buying the Special Tool HNJ5000000- Land Rover Series Gearbox Primary Pinion Nut Tool, Or making one... what other ways is suitable for removal of this delightful piece of metal?
I tried a cold chisel and hammer ... then I started to wonder about the handedness of the thread?
Kind regards
Lionel