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Thread: This is "Jonesy"

  1. #1
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    This is "Jonesy"

    Hi All,

    This is Jonesy, my 71 S2A SWB diesel. He's been lurking about in one of my sheds for a few years, now it's time he came out to play. One of the Kelpies came for a look, and she seems to like the idea of fooling about in the tub. I had it driving about when I first bought it, but leaking Welch plugs and buggered radiator saw me put Jonesy away for another time. The engine runs really nicely and the transmission all seems to be OK.

    The serial number is 27301236G
    Pressed Metal Corp plate says:
    Body number LRS 14782
    SER NO: 8814782

    I'm keen to know when/where it was first sold and if possible, what colour it was (it's had at least one repaint, maybe two....)

    I attacked it today and stripped the wings and radiator panel; the front cross member has had a previous poor repair and is rusty again, the rear cross member has been replaced and will likely need to be done again. The bulkhead has some rust in the usual places, but is save-able. Other than that, it'll be the usual few small jobs to be done.......
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  2. #2
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    Looks like a good project.
    Tidy old girl and looks to be a reasonably straight body.
    Don't forget to post progress pics.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    Looks like a good project.
    Tidy old girl and looks to be a reasonably straight body.
    Don't forget to post progress pics.

    Cheers, Mick.
    Thanks Mick,

    I'm in a bit of a quandary about the chassis rust. Do I get hold of another (sound) chassis, have it blasted and painted, and then swap all the bits over as I get them sorted/refurbished. Or do I persevere with this one, end up stripping it down for a front and rear crossmember chop and swap, then clean/blast and paint anyway? Thoughts anyone? Any issues with swapping the body onto a different chassis, provided the second chassis has no issues (not stolen, written off, etc)?

    All sage thoughts will be gratefully received.

    Thanks,

    joe

  4. #4
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    Good looking dog...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocket88 View Post
    Hi All,

    This is Jonesy, my 71 S2A SWB diesel. He's been lurking about in one of my sheds for a few years, now it's time he came out to play. One of the Kelpies came for a look, and she seems to like the idea of fooling about in the tub. I had it driving about when I first bought it, but leaking Welch plugs and buggered radiator saw me put Jonesy away for another time. The engine runs really nicely and the transmission all seems to be OK.

    The serial number is 27301236G
    Pressed Metal Corp plate says:
    Body number LRS 14782
    SER NO: 8814782

    I'm keen to know when/where it was first sold and if possible, what colour it was (it's had at least one repaint, maybe two....)

    I attacked it today and stripped the wings and radiator panel; the front cross member has had a previous poor repair and is rusty again, the rear cross member has been replaced and will likely need to be done again. The bulkhead has some rust in the usual places, but is save-able. Other than that, it'll be the usual few small jobs to be done.......
    Hi Joe

    Could only find this. Hope it helps. Nice truck btw. Will watch with interest.

    Cheers Ian

    CalVIN, the Land Rover VIN CALculator

    27301236G

    273 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
    Body type: Basic or Station wagon
    Wheel base: 88in
    Engine: diesel
    Model years: 1962-1971
    Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)
    01236 Serial number
    G Design: Six significant design modifications
    Suffix used from April 1969 till October 1971
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocket88 View Post
    Thanks Mick,

    I'm in a bit of a quandary about the chassis rust. Do I get hold of another (sound) chassis, have it blasted and painted, and then swap all the bits over as I get them sorted/refurbished. Or do I persevere with this one, end up stripping it down for a front and rear crossmember chop and swap, then clean/blast and paint anyway? Thoughts anyone? Any issues with swapping the body onto a different chassis, provided the second chassis has no issues (not stolen, written off, etc)?

    All sage thoughts will be gratefully received.

    Thanks,

    joe
    The key issue with a chassis swap is that the identity of the vehicle is that of the chassis. The key point is that ADRs apply to that date, which will result in problems putting S2a bodywork on an S3 chassis for example.

    Apart from this there are only a few minor changes between chassis from year to year, but nothing that can't be fixed with an arc welder and a can of paint, or maybe an electric drill.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    Or a set of number punches...
    I have similar issues with a S3 88", in terms of a rusted rear cross member. The rust has gone down both legs of the chassis a fair way. I found a good complete chassis at less than the price of the rust repair sections.

  8. #8
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    I'm patient, Grasshopper, but I'm having some issues sourcing a good S2A chassis (or at least knowing where to REALLY look for one). I can't help thinking that would be my best option, start with something that is sound, repaint it and build up the Jonesy from there. I have a nice dry shed with enough storage space to fit all the bits as they come off, and am confident that I'm competent enough to do the unfit/refurbishment/refit work (or the best part of it) myself. A couple of other Landy nuts, er, enthusiasts live locally and will be willing helpers if beer and bbq are on offer.

  9. #9
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    I like the look of Jonesy. Good luck with the project.

    Good to see another mighty 2.25D out there...

    Unless your chassis really does turn out to be pretty rotten, I think I would tend to keep it and repair it.

    Cheers,

    John

  10. #10
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    A little bit of progress with Jonesy:

    - have bought a set of galvanised wheel rims to replace those on Jonesy, as the originals all have some rust appearing. Got 6 rims at an excellent price (even with the freight) from facebook marketplace, so happy with that.
    - Looks like I've managed to find a solid chassis which will be with me in a few weeks, then off to be sandblasted (if required) prior to being hot dip galvanised.
    - several more sundry bits have accumulated, headlights, radiator, etc, cleaned, and put on the shelf pending reassembly.
    - have had one front wing media blasted of all paint and filler, its a bit rough but that's ok, I'm not going to paint Jonesy, just buff up the panels a bit and expose all those work scars.

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