Just a thought but would it be feasible to have the seal surface on the shaft machined and then fit an appropriate non standard sized seal?
Had no idea what a speedy sleeve is until now! And sounds like a good solution.
On closer inspection, my shaft has removable collars there. Would that be right?
and if it is, can I get new collars?
Just a thought but would it be feasible to have the seal surface on the shaft machined and then fit an appropriate non standard sized seal?
Double Post - sorry
1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000
You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!
lovely truck and find
Interesting looking tyres on that one!
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Ok...relay shaft is now at the machinist. It looks like it does have removable collars and he reckons he can make a couple of new ones.
Meanwhile I’ve been “stood down” from work for the foreseeable future, so will probably get a lot done to the car...in amongst home schooling the kids 🤨.
I’ve been spending a lot of time on the chassis...44954D9D-6ACE-4FAE-A75C-F3A0939205DB.jpg60CD4352-89E1-4068-ACA7-431069797B55.jpgED83F9A5-7526-4B73-8652-6722AC7B7C98.jpg
unfortunately I didn’t take any before photos 😩. But the crossmember under the gearbox was in bad shape as well as the side of the rear crossmember. Also had to repair the damage I made extracting the relay.
A couple of the spring hanger bolt holes are quite worn (eliptical). One had even had some copper (I think plumbing pipe 😬 as a resleeve. Has anyone replaced these or somehow sleeved them etc...?
B05D106D-DF62-4DC9-9A3F-87AF38780EBE.jpgBD9BC31E-95F2-4759-80CE-A5C88120E2E8.jpg
I have built up some with weld metal and carefully filed the hole out again. You need to realise that they also need to have good faces where they clamp the inner sleeve of the bush.
The best way to fix them would be to turn up replacements for the reinforcing pad that clamps the bushing and grind off the old and weld on the new. messy on a complete vehicle, but pretty easy on a bare chassis with it upside down, and a very simple turning job.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
thanks John,
i was thinking of doing exactly that...
I don’t have a lathe and the machine shop I’ve been getting a few things done at seem to put my jobs at the bottom of the pile. I guess if I have some thick enough steel bar I could drill the right size hole and weld it on....I’ll have a closer look 🤔.
Ok, time for an update and check in that I’m doing things correctly....so if anyone has a better way of doing things or suggestions, please chime in...
I got my steering relay shaft back from the machinist with new seal collars.
F0C6E363-D9C4-48DF-8A7A-D5C7979EB993.jpg
I’m sure it would of been more efficient to just buy a new shaft, however I like the idea of it being serviceable and also the oil hole fill through the shaft. That also made it easier to decompress the spring...I was able to insert a thin punch in the cross hole in the shaft and just wind on the spring without needing to make any special tools...
B37C459E-130C-45B8-B36C-0CE68536BA8C.jpg
in the meantime I got my chassis back from the sandblasted and have painted it. I’m very happy with the way that turned out
AA588708-0C7F-438B-A6EC-3AD9DEAFC346.jpg
ive replaced the 4 chassis suspension bushes. Some serious swearing and broken bolts going on that day! All went well with inserting new ones, however one went in easier than I thought it should of. I then reinserted it with bearing retainer loctite and for good measure tack welded the outer to the chassis. I’m not sure if that was the right thing to do or a bit dodgy?
I also cleaned up the front and rear prop shafts and removed the uni joints. There was a choice of uni joint size and all mine are the smaller ones...I then measured the movement in the front prop shaft splines using a dial indicator. Mine has double the movement allowed, so I’m goin to order a new front prop shaft. They all seem to be the same for Series I, II and III...so can anyone tell me if the new one will also fit the smaller uni joints I have?
5B04B913-76D8-4917-807D-4F60276727B3.jpg
Ive been pushing on with my transfer case and front output shaft. All back together now with new bearings and seals.
Ive pulled apart the gearbox...the first thing that dropped out was the end of the layshaft which has sheared off
9AEEE62B-7173-4618-A4FB-DC2138BF4047.jpg
the other thing that came out is this...
547C17A1-FC9D-4D09-BEC2-928C9919D45E.jpg
I think it’s part no. 239272. I can see it as a two piece ring on the parts diagram, but can’t exactly see where it’s meant to sit? Can anyone help out with that?
All the gears seem to look ok, however the 3rd/4th synchro teeth look a bit hammered...
BCD23C06-8E5B-45D6-9FAA-9919BC8FCC27.jpg
So I think I’ll replace that and the layshaft. I’ll be ordering from Australian suppliers, which doesn’t give me much choice with brands etc, so I hope they’re decent.
Apart from bearings, I assume I should also replace the brass bush?
12F2C4C8-097E-4CC1-B070-8723C684A5D6.jpg
mine is the one piece and looks ok, but assume I should just replace anyway, and if so with the two piece one?
On the note of bearings and that bush, can anyone give me advice on if I should use loctite 609 as a matter of course on both the outer bearing and inner and also on the above bush to the shaft? I didn’t do it on the transfer case because they didn’t feel loose, however when rotating my primary shaft I noticed the inner bearing was rotating in the shaft...
thats about it for the time being. Ive also ordered some Speedi Sleeves for both output flanges as they had pretty good grooves on them
308249CC-75AA-4950-AE85-41482AB673C8.jpg
Once the UK is out of lock down I’ll be able to order the overpriced rubber boots etc for the bellhousing and handbrake which seem unique to a series II and impossible to get in Oz...
Marcus
2014 Defender SWB
1959 Series II 109 Ute
1998 Range Rover P38 4.6 (cremated)
2012 L320 5.0 Supercharged
1979 2 Door RRC
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