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Thread: New Project

  1. #11
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    Had no idea what a speedy sleeve is until now! And sounds like a good solution.
    On closer inspection, my shaft has removable collars there. Would that be right?
    and if it is, can I get new collars?

  2. #12
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    Just a thought but would it be feasible to have the seal surface on the shaft machined and then fit an appropriate non standard sized seal?

  3. #13
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    Double Post - sorry

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyboy View Post
    Hi all,
    I recently (after a few beers) was on Gumtree, and saw a 1959 Series II trayback in fairly desperate shape. After a comment from my wife that “it looked cute” and my 8 and 9 year old sons egging me on, I went and purchased it!
    So I now have it in the driveway!
    It’s a very well used farm truck, unmodified and had been sitting in a paddock for decades. The motor turns over by hand, but hasn’t run for a very long time. It has the original 2.25l, lots of surface rust (after poking around with a screwdriver, so far I’m impressed with the condition of the chassis). The bulkhead has seen better days and every panel is dented 😩.
    The plan is to completely dismantle and rebuild in original condition, without being too precious (I’d like it to be useable) although I am a perfectionist 🙄.
    I spent years restoring a 1945 Willys Jeep (which I still have and drive) with very fond memories with my dad when I was a kid and thought it’s about time I did the same with my kids.
    I’m not new to land rovers, but very new to series land rovers. I currently have a 2014 SWB Defender which ive had since new.
    The car is mostly complete, however the carby and air cleaner were taken off it. It has the 90 degree adaptor on the intake manifold still...so I’m guessing it was changed to a Zenith carby at some point. I’d like to replace the original oil bath air cleaner which I gather could take a while to find one? And also the metal elbow that sits on top of the carby.
    Thanks for reading...I’m sure I’ll be asking a lot of questions!
    here it is...

    Attachment 157755Attachment 157756Attachment 157757Attachment 157758
    Nice Truck. I think I bought it's twin brother.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  5. #15
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    lovely truck and find

  6. #16
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Interesting looking tyres on that one!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #17
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    Moss Vale, Southern Highlands NSW
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    Ok...relay shaft is now at the machinist. It looks like it does have removable collars and he reckons he can make a couple of new ones.
    Meanwhile I’ve been “stood down” from work for the foreseeable future, so will probably get a lot done to the car...in amongst home schooling the kids 🤨.
    I’ve been spending a lot of time on the chassis...44954D9D-6ACE-4FAE-A75C-F3A0939205DB.jpg60CD4352-89E1-4068-ACA7-431069797B55.jpgED83F9A5-7526-4B73-8652-6722AC7B7C98.jpg
    unfortunately I didn’t take any before photos 😩. But the crossmember under the gearbox was in bad shape as well as the side of the rear crossmember. Also had to repair the damage I made extracting the relay.

    A couple of the spring hanger bolt holes are quite worn (eliptical). One had even had some copper (I think plumbing pipe &#128556 as a resleeve. Has anyone replaced these or somehow sleeved them etc...?
    B05D106D-DF62-4DC9-9A3F-87AF38780EBE.jpgBD9BC31E-95F2-4759-80CE-A5C88120E2E8.jpg

  8. #18
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I have built up some with weld metal and carefully filed the hole out again. You need to realise that they also need to have good faces where they clamp the inner sleeve of the bush.

    The best way to fix them would be to turn up replacements for the reinforcing pad that clamps the bushing and grind off the old and weld on the new. messy on a complete vehicle, but pretty easy on a bare chassis with it upside down, and a very simple turning job.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I have built up some with weld metal and carefully filed the hole out again.
    thanks John,
    i was thinking of doing exactly that...
    I don’t have a lathe and the machine shop I’ve been getting a few things done at seem to put my jobs at the bottom of the pile. I guess if I have some thick enough steel bar I could drill the right size hole and weld it on....I’ll have a closer look 🤔.

  10. #20
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    Ok, time for an update and check in that I’m doing things correctly....so if anyone has a better way of doing things or suggestions, please chime in...

    I got my steering relay shaft back from the machinist with new seal collars.
    F0C6E363-D9C4-48DF-8A7A-D5C7979EB993.jpg
    I’m sure it would of been more efficient to just buy a new shaft, however I like the idea of it being serviceable and also the oil hole fill through the shaft. That also made it easier to decompress the spring...I was able to insert a thin punch in the cross hole in the shaft and just wind on the spring without needing to make any special tools...
    B37C459E-130C-45B8-B36C-0CE68536BA8C.jpg

    in the meantime I got my chassis back from the sandblasted and have painted it. I’m very happy with the way that turned out

    AA588708-0C7F-438B-A6EC-3AD9DEAFC346.jpg

    ive replaced the 4 chassis suspension bushes. Some serious swearing and broken bolts going on that day! All went well with inserting new ones, however one went in easier than I thought it should of. I then reinserted it with bearing retainer loctite and for good measure tack welded the outer to the chassis. I’m not sure if that was the right thing to do or a bit dodgy?

    I also cleaned up the front and rear prop shafts and removed the uni joints. There was a choice of uni joint size and all mine are the smaller ones...I then measured the movement in the front prop shaft splines using a dial indicator. Mine has double the movement allowed, so I’m goin to order a new front prop shaft. They all seem to be the same for Series I, II and III...so can anyone tell me if the new one will also fit the smaller uni joints I have?

    5B04B913-76D8-4917-807D-4F60276727B3.jpg

    Ive been pushing on with my transfer case and front output shaft. All back together now with new bearings and seals.

    Ive pulled apart the gearbox...the first thing that dropped out was the end of the layshaft which has sheared off

    9AEEE62B-7173-4618-A4FB-DC2138BF4047.jpg

    the other thing that came out is this...

    547C17A1-FC9D-4D09-BEC2-928C9919D45E.jpg

    I think it’s part no. 239272. I can see it as a two piece ring on the parts diagram, but can’t exactly see where it’s meant to sit? Can anyone help out with that?

    All the gears seem to look ok, however the 3rd/4th synchro teeth look a bit hammered...

    BCD23C06-8E5B-45D6-9FAA-9919BC8FCC27.jpg

    So I think I’ll replace that and the layshaft. I’ll be ordering from Australian suppliers, which doesn’t give me much choice with brands etc, so I hope they’re decent.
    Apart from bearings, I assume I should also replace the brass bush?

    12F2C4C8-097E-4CC1-B070-8723C684A5D6.jpg

    mine is the one piece and looks ok, but assume I should just replace anyway, and if so with the two piece one?

    On the note of bearings and that bush, can anyone give me advice on if I should use loctite 609 as a matter of course on both the outer bearing and inner and also on the above bush to the shaft? I didn’t do it on the transfer case because they didn’t feel loose, however when rotating my primary shaft I noticed the inner bearing was rotating in the shaft...

    thats about it for the time being. Ive also ordered some Speedi Sleeves for both output flanges as they had pretty good grooves on them

    308249CC-75AA-4950-AE85-41482AB673C8.jpg

    Once the UK is out of lock down I’ll be able to order the overpriced rubber boots etc for the bellhousing and handbrake which seem unique to a series II and impossible to get in Oz...
    Marcus

    2014 Defender SWB
    1959 Series II 109 Ute
    1998 Range Rover P38 4.6 (cremated)
    2012 L320 5.0 Supercharged
    1979 2 Door RRC

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