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Thread: New Project

  1. #1
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    New Project

    Hi all,
    I recently (after a few beers) was on Gumtree, and saw a 1959 Series II trayback in fairly desperate shape. After a comment from my wife that “it looked cute” and my 8 and 9 year old sons egging me on, I went and purchased it!
    So I now have it in the driveway!
    It’s a very well used farm truck, unmodified and had been sitting in a paddock for decades. The motor turns over by hand, but hasn’t run for a very long time. It has the original 2.25l, lots of surface rust (after poking around with a screwdriver, so far I’m impressed with the condition of the chassis). The bulkhead has seen better days and every panel is dented 😩.
    The plan is to completely dismantle and rebuild in original condition, without being too precious (I’d like it to be useable) although I am a perfectionist 🙄.
    I spent years restoring a 1945 Willys Jeep (which I still have and drive) with very fond memories with my dad when I was a kid and thought it’s about time I did the same with my kids.
    I’m not new to land rovers, but very new to series land rovers. I currently have a 2014 SWB Defender which ive had since new.
    The car is mostly complete, however the carby and air cleaner were taken off it. It has the 90 degree adaptor on the intake manifold still...so I’m guessing it was changed to a Zenith carby at some point. I’d like to replace the original oil bath air cleaner which I gather could take a while to find one? And also the metal elbow that sits on top of the carby.
    Thanks for reading...I’m sure I’ll be asking a lot of questions!
    here it is...

    AF48B59F-33A7-4C16-B9DE-81A9D8D0B4D9.jpg313E3D28-621B-4585-9DDC-511A70B5609C.jpgC0C971BA-FE3D-4195-ADEF-B0E00689D8D5.jpg177CD6AF-D7B0-4576-8A45-75087ACFBB6B.jpg

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The Zenith carburettor is easier to find, and easier to find parts for than the Solex, but the Solex may be slightly more trouble free. Apart from these points, there is little to choose between them.

    The early Series 2 had a number of differences from later Series 2/2a, with most of the parts interchangeable - but the early parts are generally hard to find, if you want to be a stickler for originality! And most of the changes were improvements!

    To note a couple of these - the drop arm on the bottom of the steering relay was beefed up - for good reason; I had one break on my 1958 Series 2! The early ones had screw controllers on the vent flaps = a much more elegant setup than the later lever type; But you try getting them closed in a hurry when you are on a dusty road and a car appears from the other direction or is overtaking you!

    The aircleaners are readily available second hand, and could be bought from several of the suppliers here. There is not much that goes wrong with them that a clean, repaint, and possibly a new joint washer won't fix.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    Thanks John.
    Breaking steering arm sounds exciting 😬.
    I’ve started pulling apart the front, and so far been pleasantly surprised by less rust than I first thought. Localised patches in the foot wells, inner wings and some hard to fix looking rust patches under the bonnet gutter. I’m assuming will require removing the welded on gutter? And some in the bottom edge of the air flap surround.
    Door pillars are good, except I have a captive nut in there free spinning (one that holds on the left wing) that’s going to require somehow getting into the pillar to grab hold of 🙄.

  4. #4
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    Rust under bonnet gutter...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyboy View Post
    Thanks John.
    Breaking steering arm sounds exciting 😬.
    I’ve started pulling apart the front, and so far been pleasantly surprised by less rust than I first thought. Localised patches in the foot wells, inner wings and some hard to fix looking rust patches under the bonnet gutter. I’m assuming will require removing the welded on gutter? And some in the bottom edge of the air flap surround.
    Door pillars are good, except I have a captive nut in there free spinning (one that holds on the left wing) that’s going to require somehow getting into the pillar to grab hold of 🙄.
    If you can, cut the head off so you can get the mudguard off - then see about removing the nut.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
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    Looks like a great project and considering it's age and history I think you have a good one !!
    I will be following with interest
    Thanks for sharing.
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  7. #7
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    Ok...I’ve slowly been progressing...somewhat all over the place doing bits here and there. I still haven’t cleared out enough room in the shed, so I’m very weather dependent.
    Ive managed to get the steering relay out (unfortunately had to cut the chassis to do so).
    ive just taken the relay apart...which had no oil in it 😩.
    the shaft has some grooves in it where the seal runs...and I’m after some advice on whether it’s useable or too far gone? Everything else seems fine...I’m just not sure how much wear is acceptable on something like this...so any advice very much appreciated!8F13971B-2B65-4DB4-BF76-F87EB6AE2CEC.jpg9D4EA964-05A6-4720-938C-7DE4E5875915.jpg

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    In my view, it needs to be sleeved. Or replaced.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    I figured that might be the case!
    thanks John,
    Marcus

  10. #10
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    I would go to a bearing companey & buy a speedy sleve for it. Mite as well do both ends of the shaft so you don't get any oil leaks .

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