Really caught - trying to get the clutch to engage

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you dont need to remove the gearbox to adjust it.

theres a length adjustment on the push rod.

set it up so the push rod is fully extended with the forks at the 5mm distance and the bearing is face is extended from the rest position by say 20mm. then as the clutch wears you shorten the rod letting the push forks rotate backwards to accomodate the play.

the II/IIa clutch is a little bit of an artform but its key to remember that its still a hydraulic system that is largely self adjusting. once you've set it up mechanically with the throwout bearing clearance checked with the slave in the 1/2travel position you need to have enough mechanical adjustment/piston retraction to get the 11mm clearance from a new clutch.

once you have the mechanicals up and in postition 99% of your throwout bearing freeplay is going to vanish as they hydraulics do their bit.

I personally always aim to hit

rod at 3/4 max lenght
piston at 1/2 face travel
throwout bearing .5mm off of new clutch fingers.

Remember if your putting a SIII pressure plate onto a SII clutch throwout you need an adaptor that sits between the fingers and the throwout as the III's fingers sit in a different position to the levers on a II clutch

You wont get a good adjustment without the adaptor

if you find the piston is bottoming out on retraction then you can space the MC body up about 1/4 of an inch without too much hassle by adding a spacer plate or washers and slightly longer bolts.

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Thanks for the detailed reply. Exactly what I was hoping for. I have just set it up as described and will now go ahead and put it all back together again. Great fun!
Thanks everyone

The situation I could see when you would bother is if you need the vehicle tomorrow, and have an S3 pressure plate, but the mail only comes once a week.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

The situation I could see when you would bother is if you need the vehicle tomorrow, and have an S3 pressure plate, but the mail only comes once a week.

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wrong effort on the bother.

not bother as in why your would bother machining up just the spacer when you could just get the right clutch but why bother machining up a tight tolerance fitover component when you could just as easily machine up the spacer as part of a throw out sleeve.



IF it was me AND for some reason I couldnt make it as a one piece item I'd be drilling the face plate of the OEM thrust and screwing the adaptor to it with 3-5 m6 x .5 counter sunks and loctite 680.

the fitment adaptor in the pressure plate is fitted together as part of assembly of the pressure plate, not something I'd want to be getting wrong.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

I didn't say they were hard to find, just harder, and if I needed to do one, I would probably get the proper one - I was just wondering whether my suggestion would work.

And on that subject, for my ex army 1970 2a, I am guessing it has the later 9.25" clutch with the pressure plate similar to the S3. Can I assume this (I know it hasn't been changed since it left the army), or do I have to look?

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John,
I have a 1971 2A and it has the modded series 3 type pressure plate that Dave refers to (middle pic).

Cheers, Mick.

Thanks Mick, but I'm not sure how confident that makes me that mine has it. As far as I know they were optional until the end of 2a production, but I would not be surporised if all of the Australian ones had them well before then -- but I don't know! And when I do need to do the clutch, I would like to know what bits to order before I start pulling it apart!

I suspect I can see through the opening you get when you take off the gear lever assembly.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Thanks Mick, but I'm not sure how confident that makes me that mine has it. As far as I know they were optional until the end of 2a production, but I would not be surporised if all of the Australian ones had them well before then -- but I don't know! And when I do need to do the clutch, I would like to know what bits to order before I start pulling it apart!

I suspect I can see through the opening you get when you take off the gear lever assembly.

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correct, you can also see it with a mirror on a stick by taking the rubber seal off of the clutch tube hole (if you're lucky you have a l/r version of the bellhousing the left one is really easy to get out.

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Originally Posted by mick88

John,
I have a 1971 2A and it has the modded series 3 type pressure plate that Dave refers to (middle pic).

Cheers, Mick.

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My admittedly fuzzy memory from my RAEME days agrees with Mick.