Is the clutch friction plate in the right way round?
Hi All
After going over the hydraulics 3x and pulling the gearbox out 2x I am finally coming for collective wisdom.
I am struggling to get the clutch to engage on a 65 series 2. It is the hydrostatic type clutch.I am pretty sure the problem is not the rod from the slave cylinder set up because even when the thrust bearing is fully out it does not touch the release fingers on the pressure plate. I have a new clutch plate (9"), but everything else is original. I have missed something obvious, but can't see it!
I wonder if someone who has their gearbox out could measure the following for me.
1. The distance from the edge of the bell housing to the fully extended release bush. Mine is 30mm. - photo attached
2. The distance from the front of the pressure plate to the top of one of the three fingers.- photo attached. Again mine is 30mm. I know this fluctuates with the condition of the clutch, my plate is new and about 6mm thick.
Also attached a photo of where I'm up to - not a natural but I'm really enjoying it!
Cheers. Richard
Is the clutch friction plate in the right way round?
Phil B
Custodian of:
1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
1978 S3 swb canvas
48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
1985 County with 4BD1T
When you say you can't get it to engage,I think you mean you can't get it to disengage? In other words, the clutch release sleeve is not reaching the three release fingers.
As far as I can see, there are only three possibilities:-
1. Incorrect clutch driven plate - too thick
2. Incorrect clutch cover (pressure plate), or bolts on to flywheel loose
3. Clutch release shaft is not set on the right splines in the fork. (See manual for details how to set this)
In my view, (3) is the most likely.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks
I have only changed the clutch plate, everything else has been taken apart ( not the pressure plate) and cleaned with new bushes etc.
one of the reasons I was looking for the measurements was to start eliminating the possibilities.
When I swap the new clutch plate for the original the fingers only drop down to 22mm (from 30mm) - but the 8mm difference is easily explained when you look at the fulcrum of the fingers. I could easily see that a 1mm thicker plate could result in a 2 or even 2.5mm difference.
Also, I haven’t messed with the locked adjusters in the pressure plate, so it’s looking more and more like the release splines!
Let’s see where it goes.
Thanks again
Richard
Is the clutch plate exactly the same diameter as the old one , why I am asking is I bought a new clutch plate once & it was slightly bigger than the original , like 1 to 2mm's & the outer edge was touching on the pressure plate housing . had the gearbox out about ten times until I worked out the problem . Probably not that but worth checking.
You could also check that you do not have too much end float in the crank shaft causing the flywheel to move forward causing you to run out of travel on the throw out.
as mentioned, release bearing thrust fork is on the wrong spline in the box, its easy to prove, simply drop theslave off and then rotate the shaft (by hand if the box is out) and by means of a long bar and a pair of vice grips on the connection tube if its in teh vehicle
from memory the throw from the face of the throw out to the casing should be nearer 50mm than 30 but I forget the exact number from last time I went through this.
its easy to id if the plate is a near enoughs good enough and just a fraction too big under the pressure plate, if you undo all the retaining bolts about 2 turns it will remain stiff to center up with an alignment tool
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
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Can you really put the plate the wrong way round.
It will only go one way, pressure plate wont tighten up if wrong, will it ????
whitehillbilly
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